Sunday, April 8, 2012

Day 13 - Easter Sunday in the Holy Land

Church of the Holy Sepulchre - Jerusalem

In addition to being the second day of Passover, today is Easter Sunday, one of the most important festivals in the Christian religion.  In homes all over America, children are waking up to Easter baskets filled with chocolate bunnies and assorted gifts. While other children are scurrying about on Easter Egg hunts.

While my family does not participate in any of these traditions, I still take great delight it watching my Christian neighbors, who are free to observe their religious customs with no limitations or restrictions.  Religious freedom is one of the best things about living in America.  

Even though Israel is technically a "Jewish State", the country is very supportive of the rights of non-Jews to practice their religious beliefs.  At this time of year, Christian worshipers from all over the world gather in Jerusalem to celebrate the festival of Easter.  They travel the route of Jesus Christ - referred to as the "Twelve Stations of the Cross". They congregate for Easter sunrise services at the Garden tomb in Jerusalem.  And, they celebrate Easter Mass at the ancient Church of the Holy Sepulchre (aka Church of the Resurrection) within Jerusalem's walled Old City.

I am glad that Israel is so supportive of their Christian residents and visitors.  Especially given the history of religious discrimination practiced in Jerusalem.  In 1948, when the United Nations granted Israel the right to exist as a country, they recommended the city of Jerusalem be "internationalized", and so it was divided  between the Israeli Jews and the Palestinian Arabs.  However, the Arab country of Jordan seized control in 1948 war, and denied Jews access to the "Old City" which included the Wall (aka "Kotel") and the Mount of Olives (the oldest cemetery in Jerusalem - where Jews had been burying their dead for over 2,500 years).

The Jordanians desecrated the Mount of Olives areas by building a road right through the middle of the cemetery.  Hundreds of Jewish  graves were destroyed in the process.  The gravestones, honoring the memory of rabbis and sages, were used as pavement and latrines in the Jordanian army camps. In addition, the ancient Jewish Quarter of Jerusalem was completely ravaged, with 58 synagogues being destroyed or turned into stables and chicken coops.  This was a very sad page in Jewish history.

During the 19 years the Jordanians were in control, Jews were not the only ones who found their freedom impeded.  Israeli Christians were also barred from the daily access to their religious sites and only a limited number of Christian visitors were allowed to enter Old Jerusalem and Bethlehem during the festivals of Christmas and Easter.

In 1967, during the Six Day War, the Jews took back the city and were finally in control of all Jerusalem.  The first thing the Israeli government did was abolish all the discriminatory laws enacted by Jordan and adopt laws to ensure equal access to all religious shrines.  Israel even agreed to entrust administration of the holy places to their respective religious authorities - so that each faith would be in control of their own shrines.  Today, Jews, Christians, and Muslims are all free to go to Jerusalem and visit their holy places with no restrictions.

When I finally get to Israel, I plan to visit as many religious sites as I can.  While my primary focus will be on visiting Jewish religious sites, I would also like to visit the religious sites of the Christian and Muslim faiths.  Visiting the sites of all three religions will give me a better sense of world history, and most importantly, allow me to exercise the freedom that Israel offers to all it's visitors.