Day 66 - Druze

Israel is comprised of many different religions and cultures.  One of the populations that I was totally unfamiliar with are the "Druze".  Primarily found in the northern area of Israel, the Druze people are a separate monotheistic religion - distinct from Judaism, Christianity, and Islam. The Druze religion is a very private religion and is closed to converts.  The worldwide population is estimated somewhere between 1 and 2.5 million, of which 100,000 live in Israel.  

From what I understand, during the 1948 War of Independence, the Druze actually fought alongside of the Jews against the invading Arab countries.  To this day, the Druze continue to serve in the Israel military.  One thing I find especially interesting about the Druze is their attitudes towards women.  Apparently they have the ability to attain high rank in their religion.  Women are even seen as being better "spiritually prepared" than men.  In everyday life, the rights of the women is almost identical to men.  In the Middle East, there are so many cultures that treat their women as second-class citizens - I am so glad the Druze aren't one of them!


There are several Druze villages that are noted for their great hospitality to visitors.  One such place is Daliyat el-Carmel, a village located on the slopes of Mt. Carmel in Northern Israel.  This Druze village hosts markets on Saturdays and many of the village shops offer ethnic foods such as: olive oil, olives, pita bread, and cheese.  Other sites in the village include olive oil presses, textile workshops, and art galleries.  There is even a Druze heritage house that offers an exhibit on the lifestyle of the Druze people.
  
In some of the Druze villages, visitors are welcomed into their home for lunch.  These intimate gatherings allow people to see how the Druze live, what foods they eat, and learn more about their culture.  I don't know if you have to be part of an organized group to participate in these in-home visits?  However, if I had the opportunity to visit on my own, I would.  I think that the more we can learn about other cultures - the smaller the world becomes.

Day 65 - McKosher

Many years ago, my travels took me through England & Scotland for two weeks. On the very last day, I began craving food from home.  So my very last supper in London was at Pizza Hut, where I displayed my boorish American tendencies by eating a slice of pizza with my hands.  The refined British that surrounded me were using knives and forks!

Anyway, today I got to think about what American restaurant chains I might stumble upon in Israel.  McDonalds is one of them and I was surprised to learn that several of them are "kosher".  In Judaism, keeping Kosher is a very big deal to Orthodox (and even to some Conservative & Reform) Jews.  While there are volumes written information on all the rules and regulations - the basics come down to this:

• No mixing meat & dairy
• Permitted animals (beef, chicken, lamb, etc.) must be killed according to Jewish law
• No shellfish
• No pork

So when you visit a kosher McDonalds, the first thing that comes to mind is what about the "Quarter Pounder with Cheese"?  Well, obviously you are not going to find that there.  Yep, cheeseburgers are not kosher.  From what I understand, they don't serve any cheese at the kosher McDonald's in Israel.  While they do have some dairy products (like ice cream & milk shakes) they are served in totally separate areas.

One thing I also learned about the McDonalds restaurants in Israel is that the many of them have menus only in Hebrew.  Which I thought was kind of strange considering it's an American chain.  Oh well, I guess if anything, non-Hebrew customers can at least place their orders by pointing to what they want. 

Since I don't follow the rules of kashrut (i.e. keep kosher), I will probably just end up visiting one of the non-kosher McDonalds in Israel.  To me, McD's Quarter Pounder would just seem naked without the cheese!  Of course, if I was able to have my dream American meal in Israel - I would stumble upon an In N Out Burger.  Yum! Yum!

Day 64 - Learning to Weave

I love shawls and I love scarves.  Whenever I am in a store, farmers market, or art show that has these textiles for sale, I usually come home with a new one for my collection.

I have always had a dream to learn how to weave.  Perhaps it's my link to the Jewish matriarch, Rachel, who I share my Hebrew name with?  Whenever I think of her weaving that "Coat of Many Colors" for Joseph, I have always thought how cool that would be to make a jacket like that for sons.  And, if I could learn how to weave a shawl or scarf for myself - bonus!

I was very excited to learn about a place in Israel, Kedma Ancient Crafts, that specializes in teaching people how to weave.  Their 5 hour workshop promises to teach visitors the entrire process - from fleece to fabric.  Participants learn how to spin, dye, and weave fabric.  All in just 5 hours - wow!

The goal of Kedma Ancient Crafts is to help reintroduce crafts and skills from the past - that has long been forgotten.  The creator of Kedma Ancient Crafts is Suri Provisor.  She is an Israeli artist who is very connected to the ancient land she lives in:

"One of the things that I really love about weaving is the way it connects us through our hands  to all cultures around the world and to many many generations before us. I love to think while I’m weaving about all the hands that did the same things that mine do."

Originally a student of archaeology, Suri developed a love and passion for weaving.  Some of the specialty items she makes by hand are: talits, shawls, pillows, and baby slings.  Her products are hand-dyed and made of natural cotton.

Kedma Ancient Crafts is located north of Jerusalem in Shilo, Benyamin.  I definitely plan to visit this beautiful area of Israel and sign up for one of the weaving workshops.  Even if I end up having no talent for weaving, I know that I will be coming home with one of Suri's beautiful handwoven shawls to add to my collection.

 

Day 63 - Yad Kennedy Memorial

Today is Memorial Day in the United States, so I thought it was only fitting to write today's blog post about an American "memorial" located in Israel.

The memorial was built in 1966 following the assassination of President John F. Kennedy in 1963.  Funds to erect the memorial were raised by Jewish communities in the United States.  The Yad Kennedy memorial was designed by Israeli architect David Resnick. Incidentally, the word "yad" is Hebrew for the word "hand".

The Yad Kennedy memorial, is located just outside of Jerusalem, on a mountain-top in the Aminadav Forest.  The memorial is supposed to symbolize a tree "cut down in it's prime". Standing 60 feet tall, the 51 columns represent the 50 states plus the District of Columbia.  Each column bears a seal for it's state.  At the center of the "tree trunk" is a bust of President Kennedy and an "eternal flame", indicating that despite his death, the spirit of this American leader lives on.

I believe this memorial attests to the American-Israeli friendship that has endured since the creation of the Jewish State in 1948.  No other country has been a better friend and ally to Israel than the United States of America.

Day 62 - Segway Tours of Tel Aviv

Okay, so it's a beautiful Sunday afternoon in Tel Aviv and you are looking for something "different" to do.  That is exactly the idea behind taking a Segway tour. of the city.  What fun! 

For just $55 dollars, you can hop aboard a Segway and take a unique kind of "stroll" along the beach promenade or explore the city of Tel Aviv as an "open-air experience".  This has to be the ultimate walk-about for lazy folks like me.

I really can't think of a funner thing to do on a sunny afternoon. I have been wanting to ride a segway for several years now, but it's just never been at the right place and time to do so.  So I would love to do this when my travels take me through Tel Aviv.

The Segway Tours website is kind of vague, so I am not sure how long $55 would take me.  Even if that would just buy me a 30 minute ride along the beach, I think I'd be a happy camper.  Vroom.  Vroom.  I hope there are English instructions!  I did read that they offer a 15 minute training session before letting you loose... so I think I could do this.  Afterall, last summer I drove a manual transmission car (on the wrong side of the road) in England/Scotland - so after that - I feel like I can do anything!

Day 61 - Rockefeller Archeological Museum

The Rockefeller Archeological Museum is located in Jerusalem.  The museum was named in honor of John D. Rockefeller, the American philanthropist, who donated $2 million dollars to build the museum.  When Rockefeller (who by the way, was not Jewish) agreed to subsidize the museum, he stipulated the money had to be used to create a museum to exhibit archeological collections.  It was Rockefeller's intention that the museum would display the part "people" played in the history of Israel.

Construction of the museum began on June 19, 1930.  Eight years later the museum opened its door to the general public.  The museum's collection is quite extensive and includes artifacts from archeological digs throughout Israel.  The museum also contains the remains of a 10,000 year old man discovered on Mount Carmel.  

A couple on bits I've read on the downside of visiting the museum are:

• Visitors should dress warmly in the winter - as they don't heat the building.
• There is no parking - so it's best to walk to the museum or travel by public transport.
• There are no lights in the hallways, because when the museum was built in the 30's - they thought the high windows would provide enough light.
• The collections are displayed in a somewhat disorderly fashion - this is definitely not a modern museum.

Despite all those negatives, I still think that I would like to visit the museum.  I think that a rustic building is somehow very appropriate for an archeological museum.  It makes me think it would be the kind of museum Indiana Jones would frequent.  Perhaps if Steven Speilberg had filmed his action packed epics here - the modern-day Rockefeller family would consider donating funds to help modernize the building?

Day 60 - Ammunition Hill

I have heard that no trip to Jerusalem is complete without visiting Ammunition Hill.  This is the site of one of the bloodiest battles fought during the Six Day War on June 6, 1967.  Even though it resulted in an incredible victory - the reunification of Jerusalem - it cost the lives of many soldiers.

Ammunition Hill has an interesting history.  In the 1930's the British built a police academy in north Jerusalem and used the nearby hill to store their ammunition, which is how the hill got it's name.  In 1948, during the Israeli War of Independence, the Jordanians captured Ammunition Hill.  Once it was in the hands of the Jordanians, the heavily fortified hill served as a strategic way to control the entire surrounding area.

In 1967, during the Six Day War, 150 Israeli paratroopers attacked the hill.  Due to bad military intelligence the Israelis thought they outnumbered the Jordanians by 3 to 1.  Instead, the numbers ended up being pretty even.  The two countries engaged in some intensive hand-to-hand combat that resulted in deaths of 36 Israelis and 71 Jordanians.
  
Today, Ammunition Hill serves as a somber memorial to commemorate all the Israeli soldiers - killed during the Six Day War.  It also serves to celebrate an incredible victory - the reunification of  Jerusalem.  The site has well preserved trenches, bunkers, and tanks.  In addition, it also has an in-depth museum which documents not only the Six Day War, but also the Armed Jewish Resistance to the Nazi's in Europe.  Finally, Ammunition Hill serves as the main Jerusalem induction center for new IDF recruits.

Day 59 - Spirtual Journey & Tour

While doing my research on interesting things to do and see in Israel, I often come across companies that offer custom tours.  However, out of all the ones I've seen, this sounds the most interesting by far.

The "Inward Bound Israel Experience" offers a holistic Jewish experience that promises to be totally unique.  On this tour, participants walk the land and learn about the spiritual wisdom of the Torah.  A unique blend of a physical and spiritual journey.

Here is a description from their website:

Walk in the footsteps of King David, feel the fire of the great kabbalists of Sfat, dance in a two  thousand year old synagogue, visit the tomb of our patriarchs in Hebron, rest your head on the Holy Western Wall, and meet the most important person in your life -You.

I really love the idea of dancing in a 2000 year old synagogue.  That sounds totally awesome.  Before I head over to Israel, I think I will check out their website to see if they have any short tours or retreats planned.  Their "spiritual journey and tour" sounds like a great way to "reJEWvenate".

If anything, coming across this website made me realize that there are many elements to this journey.  While it is fun to focus on all the sites and scenes I am going to visit, I am reminded that there is a spiritual side to my journey as well.  One thing that many people have shared with me about their "Israel Experience" is that they actually felt a shift in who they were and came back feeling different.  The land, the people, the history, all touched them in ways they could not have imagined. 

So, I am reminded that when I go to Israel I need to do more than just run from each attraction - like you do at Disneyland.  Instead, I need to make sure that I stop and breathe it all in.  That I take the time to journal my experiences, watch some sunsets, and be flexible with my plans.  After all, it's now always about the destination - what matters most is the journey.

Day 58 - YMCA Tower

Who knew that the the Jerusalem YMCA and the Empire State Building were both designed by the same architect - Arthur Lewis Harman.

In Jerusalem, just across from the very famous (look for it in an upcoming blog post) King David Hotel, stands the YMCA.  This building is a unique blend of architecture and provides a great view of the Old City of Jerusalem.  It is fairly cheap to purchase entrance into the Tower (seven stories high) and on a clear day they say you can see forever!  Okay, maybe just for miles.

On the front of the building there are quotes in three languages - Hebrew, Arabic and Aramaic - to represent the three religions that descend from Abraham.  At the entrance of the building, there are 12 cyprus trees to represent the 12 tribes of Israel.  There are also 40 pillars in the courtyard to commemorate the 40 years the Israelites spent in the desert.  Lots of cool symbolism here!

As you wander inside, there are columns with sculptures of biblical figures, animals, flora, and scriptures from the Bible.  There is also an "All Faiths" chapel, which has bells and their own personal bell-ringer. On their website they say that visitors can learn all about the building by arranging for a tour in advance.

Those are some serious looking bells!

Since I like a good view, as much as the next person, I think I will stop by and check it out.  After all, since I have already visited the Empire State Building in NY, it just seems fitting to visit this "sister structure" in Jerusalem.

Of course, I wonder if I can visit there without hearing the Village People singing that song "YMCA"?

Day 57 - Moshe Castel Museum of Art

I have to admit that I don't know much about Moshe Castel, but from what I do know, he sounds well worth checking out.  In Israel, Castel is considered a "national treasure".  His works can be found on display in Israel's Knesset, at the home of the President, and at the Moshe Castel Museum of Art.

A native of Israel, Castel was born in Jerusalem in 1909.  His family's connection to Israel goes back for many generations - they immigrated directly to Israel (which was then called Palestine) in 1492, when the Jews were expelled from Spain.  As a young man, Castel went off to Paris to study art, during which time he traveled in the same circles with such artists as: Picasso, Matisse, Sutin and Chagall.  During WWII, Castel was forced to flee Nazi occupied France.  He returned home and took up residence within the art community of Safed, Israel. 

Castel's art is easily recognized by his distinctive use of vibrant colors - reds, blues, and greens.  He also had a penchant for literally incorporating the "Land of Israel" right into his art.  He would use basalt rock, indigenous to Israel, as a medium in his paintings.  His "modernist techniques" included embellishing his art with ancient symbols and letters.  Kind of an old vs. new approach to art.

The Moshe Castel Art Museum is located in Jerusalem.  The museum is run by his widow, Bilhah Castel, who still serves as the museum's president.  When the museum was designed the idea was to not only display Moshe's art, but to offset the landscape of Israel that inspired his work.  I love the windows of the museum, almost look like paintings themselves!

Day 56 - Time Elevator

This is one of those touristy things that sounds so hokey, that you almost feel like you have to do it.  If anything, I sure love the motto displayed on their webpage - "Take off to your dream destination".

The Time Elevator is a 3D multimedia simulation, which allows you to "experience" 3,000 years of Jerusalem's history.  Similar to a ride at Disneyland, visitors take a seat in the special theatre with moveable seats, that allow you to "descend" through history and "fly over" Jerusalem.  Combining panoramic film, special effects, and an engaging movie, visitors get to feel like they are participants - rather than spectators.  To help facilitate an international audience, they provide surround sound headsets so you can choose from eight different languages to hear the show..

What's especially cool is that the theatrical "tour guide" is none other than Chaim Topol, who was the star in "Fiddler on the Roof".  He leads visitors on an action packed jaunt through the history of Jerusalem, where you are witness to crashing ceilings, splashing water, and other special effects, as you learn about history of Jerusalem - from when the city was ruled by King David to the re-unification of the city during the 1967 Six-Day War.  

I could see how this would be a great way to introduce your children to history in a fun and educational way.  This would be a great add-on to a Bar Mitzvah trip to Israel.

Day 55 - Garden Library

Anyone that knows me, knows that one of my biggest passions is books.  My second love is gardens.  Put the two of them together and I am one happy happy person.  I suppose that is why as a child, one of my favorite books was The Secret Garden, by Francis Hodgson Burnett.  So, when I learned of a special place in Israel called: The Garden Library - I was curious to learn more.

The Garden Library is a outdoor library that exists in Lewinsky Park in Tel Aviv.  It is the brainchild of ARTEAM, an Israeli nonprofit group, composed of artists.  They saw a need for an open-air library in the park to allow the families of migrant workers and refugees access to books. Staffed by volunteers, the Garden Library is only open on the weekends.  While the time they are open is limited, their collection is not.  They have books for adults and children in 16 different languages - ranging from  Bengali, English, French, Hindi, Mandarin Chinese, Thai, Romanian, etc.

To receive a "library card" all that is required is a 30 shekel refundable deposit (about $7.50).  For those who have no money, they are free to sit there and read a book to their heart's content.  The Garden Library is unique in that when it's open for "business" the walls that normally protect the books, now become the floors upon which the children can sit down and read on. Right now the library has a collection of about 3,500 books, with two large bookshelves - one for adults and one for children.

What is really novel (no pun intended) about the library is that the books are all shelved according to "emotion".  No Library of Congress or Dewey Decimal cataloging system here. Instead, inside each book is a sticker asking for the reader's review - How would you describe the book?  Book review choices include: amusing, boring, bizarre, depressing, exciting, inspiring, and sentimental.  Books are then shelved according to the applicable emotion sticker.  Hmm... sounds a little complicated to me, but maybe with their group of library patrons it works.

I think it's just awesome that local artists in Tel Aviv teamed up to create such a unique resource for their community.  Since the Jewish people have always been known as "The People of The Book", it seems like Israelis are helping others to be the same.

Day 54 - Temple Mount

The Temple Mount, located in the Muslim Quarter of the Old City of Jerusalem is the location that both the First and Second Jewish Temples once stood.  The Second Temple was destroyed by the Romans in 70 CE.  Five hundred years later, the Chaliph Omar traveled to Jerusalem and claimed that Mohammed rose to heaven from the very same spot. 

Today, the Dome of the Rock stands upon the Temple Mount.  The entire area is under control of the Muslim Religious Authority and have full authority on who can visit.  Everyone, except Muslims, are forbidden to take any religious items onto the Temple Mount.  Therefore, if you have any sacred objects or books with you, they must be left in the security area. 

In recent years, non-Muslims have been forbidden from entering the Dome of the Rock and the al-Aksa Mosque.  For Jews, visiting the Temple Mount is very controversial.  Some rabbis believe that since the Jewish Temple's "Holy of Holies" (ie. where the Ark of the Covenant was kept) once stood near the center of the Temple Mount, Jews are forbidden by religious tradition from entering the area.  Other rabbis disagree, saying that once the Ark was removed from the Temple Mount area all restrictions were removed. 

According to Jewish and Christian tradition, the Messiah can only come when the Temple is rebuilt on the Temple Mount.  However, the Muslims have no intention of getting rid of the Dome of the Rock or the al-Aksa Mosque.  This has created a stalemate among the different religious groups and has created a lot of paranoia and distrust.  As a result, clashes at the Temple Mount erupt quite often, with creates even more religious and political strife.

For me, while the Temple Mount looks quite lovely, I think I will opt to just view it from afar.  I believe that my proper place is visiting the Western Wall, not the Dome of the Rock.

Day 53 - Old City - Muslim Quarter

The Muslim Quarter is one of the four quarters of the Old City of Jerusalem.  This neighborhood is the largest and has the most residents.  With a population of approximately 22,000 people, the Muslim Quarter is ten times bigger than the Jewish Quarter.

This part of the Old City is famous for lots of market stalls and shops.  Arab merchants are noted for standing outside their shops, encouraging tourists to come on in and look around.  The Arab Quarter also boasts many cafes and restaurants.

Famous landmarks in the Muslim Quarter include the  Temple Mount, which has two Islamic shrines - the Dome of the Rock and the al-Aksa mosque.  The Dome of the Rock was built upon the rock where Abraham tried to sacrifice his son, Isaac.  The Koran states that this is the same rock from where the prophet, Mohammed, ascended to heaven.

To the Muslims, the al-Aksa mosque is considered to be the third holiest site (after Mecca and Medina, both of which are in Saudi Arabia) in the Islamic religion.  According to Muslims, Mohammed experienced a "night journey" (dream) where he journeyed to this distant spot.

Both the Dome of the Rock and the al-Aksa mosque are closed to visitors, five times a day.  During that time, the buildings are used strictly for Muslim prayers.

Other famous landmarks, located in the Muslim Quarter, are the first seven Stations of the Cross.  These holy spots are of great religious significance to Christians, as they mark the journey of Jesus as he traveled to the crucifixion.

Day 52 - Old City - Christian Quarter

The Christian Quarter is one of the four quarters of the Old City of Jerusalem.  Even though the Christian Quarter is the second largest quarter in the Old City, it seems that there are not many residents.  Instead, it seems that most of the area is comprised of religious buildings.  In the quarter, there are over 40 churches, monastaries, and hostels for Christian pilgrims. 

The most famous landmark in the Christian Quarter is the Church of the Holy Sepulchre (aka Church of the Resurrection).  According to Christian tradition, this is the site where Jesus Christ was crucified and buried.  Additional sites of religious significance in Christianity include the the final Stations of the Cross, which traces the last steps of Jesus.

Inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre are other holy sites, which include: the Stone of Anointing, the tomb, and the rotunda.  The different denominations oversee different parts of the church.  During the 12th century, fighting broke out among the different groups when the couldn't agree as to who should guard the key.  Therefore, the Arab ruler, Saladin, entrusted the key to a Muslim family.  To this day, the same Muslim family is still in possession of the key.  Each morning at dawn, the doorkeeper comes to open the church, and he returns at in the evening to lock it again.

Another popular tourist attraction in the Christian Quarter is the "the market" where all sorts of wares are sold:  religious items, pottery, candles, souvenirs, rugs, jewelry, and other decorative items.  The market is well known for being a barters paradise.  Tourists need to approach the stalls ready to negotiate a good deal.  The market also offers: coffee shops, restaurants, lots of shops, and even a few small museums.

Day 51 - Old City - Armenian Quarter

The Armenian Quarter is the smallest of the four quarters of the Old City of Jerusalem.  St. James Monastery, takes up about two-thirds of the Armenian Quarter.  The Monastery contains gifts left by pilgrims over the last 1,000 years. It also includes the Gulbenkian Library, which holds more than 100,000 volumes, many of which date back hundreds of years.  During the 1967 war, two unexploded bombs were found inside the monastery, which the Armenians considered a miracle.

While almost 3000 Armenians live in Jerusalem, on 500 actually live in the Armenian Quarter.  The Armenian people have had a presence in Jerusalem since the first century, when they fought under the Roman emperor, Titus.  They adopted Christianity as their official religion even before the Romans.

The Armenian Quarter was established in the 14th century.  A famous landmark in the quarter is James Church.  Built during the 12th century, this church was erected to honor both the brother of Jesus and James the Apostle.   According to Armenian tradition, Jesus' brother is buried at the center of the church and the head of St. James is located in a marked shrine.

Unlike the other Old City neighborhoods, the Armenian Quarter does not attract alot of tourists.  There are only just a few souvenir shops and restaurants.  Armenians are well known for their tiles and ceramics, and as such, there are a few of these specialty shops in the neighborhood.

Day 50 - Old City - Jewish Quarter

The Jewish Quarter is one of the four quarters of the Old City of Jerusalem.  This neighborhood has around 2000 residents and has many yeshivas (Torah study centers) and synagogues.  Of all the synagogues, the most notable is the Hurva Synagogue, which was built in 1701.  Despite being destroyed, rebuilt, and destroyed again, it was rebuilt again in 2010.

When the modern state of Israel came into existence in 1948, Jerusalem was supposed to be an "International City", which meant the Jewish Quarter was supposed to fall under jurisdiction of the Jewish people.  During the Israeli War of Independence, the Jordanians took control of the Jewish Quarter and forced all the Jews to leave and set about destroying everything inside.  One third of the all the buildings were totally demolished.

In 1967, after the Six Day War, the Jewish people were once again in control of the Jewish Quarter.  The Israeli government allowed 25 Arab families to remain in their homes (as a gesture of good will) and financially compensated the rest of the Arabs who were evacuated.  With that, rebuilding the quarter began, with the intention of blending in the new buildings, with what remained of the old.  During the rebuild process, archaeologists oversaw all construction work, to preserve any antiquities.

The most famous landmark of the Jewish Quarter is the Western Wall.  This massive retaining wall once protected the Temple of Jerusalem, which was destroyed by the Romans in 20 C.E.  Inside the Jewish Quarter are plenty of restaurants and shops for visitors to browse through.  The majority of residents of this area are religious Jews, split between Modern Orthodox and Ultra Orthodox.  As a result, everything in the area is closed mid-day Friday to Saturday night - in preparation for Shabbat. 

Day 49 - Old City - The Four Quarters

The "Old City" of Jerusalem is divided into four distinct neighborhoods, which were named to reflect the ethnic group that comprises it's majority population.  Surrounded by ancient walls, the four quarters form a rectangular shaped grid.  Using streets as imaginary "dividing lines", there are four quarters: Jewish, Armenian, Christian, and Muslim.

The Old City is about 220 acres in size.  The surrounding walls were re-built in the 1500s when Jerusalem was part of the Ottoman Empire.   The Old City has 11 gates, of which only seven are currently open.  One of the closed gates is the "Golden Gate".  This gate is closest one to where the 1st and 2nd Jewish Temples once stood.  According to Jewish tradition, when the Messiah arrives, he will enter Jerusalem through this very gate.  To prevent this from ever happening, the Muslims had the gate sealed permanently shut.

The main entrance to the Old City is through the Jaffa Gate, which is large enough to allow cars to pass through.  Just inside that gate are two graves beneath some  trees.  It is believed that these are the graves of the two architects whom the Suleiman the Magnificent, had re-build the city walls. The story goes that the two men were put to death because either the Sultan wanted to ensure they would never build anything more impressive, or because they failed to include Mount Zion within the walls of the Old City. 

They say the best way to get to know the Old City is wander through each quarter.  Seeing the people in each neighborhood, allows visitors to get a feel for Jerusalem - both old and new.  To prepare me for my travels, I thought I would take a few days to examine each of the four quarters and see what each one has to has to offer.

Day 48 - Biblical Zoo

There is no finer way to spend a Sunday than visiting a zoo.  For years, my family has enjoyed going to various zoos across the United States and Canada, and it's always been one of our favorite ways to enjoy the great outdoors.   

While the Jerusalem zoo may be a half the size of the zoos I've frequented, I think they make up for their smaller size, with their unique collection of animals.  The 62 acre zoo contains more than 140 species of animals that are either mentioned in the Bible, or an endangered species from around the world.

The mission of the Biblical Zoo was to establish a collection of rare and endangered animals.  With an emphasis on animals from the Land of Israel, they also wanted to place special emphasis on animal species mentioned in the Bible.  Sort of a modern day Noah's Ark.

As a matter of fact, their visitors center has been fashioned in the image of Noah's Ark.  It's quite large, with an auditorium, computer stations, a souvenir shop, and even a cafeteria.  There is even an outdoor deck, which offers fabulous views of the zoo's grounds and Jerusalem in the background.

Knowing that kids like to have special zoo areas to run and play, there is a sculpture garden, built especially with the youngest visitors in mind.  The garden has almost 25 works of art, created to look like colorful fantasy creatures.  Kids are encouraged to climb and play in the sculpture garden.


This sounds like a fun place to visit.  I love that the Biblical Zoo is working hard to fulfill Noah's mission of conserving all the wonderful animals that are on our the planet.  Looks like the only thing missing from the zoo is unicorns!

Day 47 - Karaite Underground Synagogue

The Karaite Synagogue is Jerusalem is one of the oldest synagogue's in the world.  Dating back to the 8th century, this synagogue is actually located underground in the Jewish Quarter of the Old City.  The underground location of the synagogue is attributed to the Biblical verse: "Out of the depths have I cried unto thee, O Lord" (Psalms 130:1)  

The synagogue sustained massive damage during the 1948 War of Independence.  After the 1967 Six Day War, when Israel was reunified the Karaites began the slow process of restoration and renovation.  Today it is once again used as a full functioning Karaite synagogue.  Visitors can have  guided tours of the building and there is even a small museum adjacent to the synagogue.  When I go to Jerusalem, I look forward to visiting this synagogue, not only to admire it's historical significance, but to also learn more about the practice and beliefs of Karaite Jews.

Editor's note:  Due to information provided by Eli'ezer ben Ephraim haKohen, a founding board member of Karaite Jewish University, this blog post was revised on 05/28/12.

Day 46 - Israel's First Kibbutz

The Deganya Kibbutz, was the very first kibbutz in Israel.  It was founded in 1910 by Russian immigrants.  The word kibbutz, is Hebrew for "gathering".  Essentially, a kibbutz is a collective group of people that join together to work and live.  Traditionally, work on a kibbutz centered on agriculture, although today most kibbutzim are focused on industry.

The early kibbutz movement was founded on socialist/utopian principals.  The members lived as a commune - cooking together, praying together, working together, and even sharing in the duties of childcare.  Most importantly, members of the kibbutz received wages based upon their needs, instead of upon the worked they performed.  Currently, there are almost 300 kibbutzim in Israel and are a part of a billion dollar industry with regards to Israel's industry and agriculture.

The Deganya Kibbutz, which is still in operation, although it's now run in accordance with "modern times" (i.e. less socialist and more egalitarian) has an interesting history.  In 1948, during Israel's War of Independence, the Syrians attacked the unarmed kibbutz.  Even though the Syrians had 26 tanks, they were all knocked out by the Molotov cocktails thrown by the kibbutzniks.  At the Deganya's main entrance one of the Syrian tanks stands - a memorial to the courageous Israelis who stood their ground when the modern country of Israel began. 

Day 45 - Baha'i Gardens

I don't know of any gardens that look more breathtaking than the Baha'i Gardens in Haifa.  This beautiful religious site of the Baha'i religion, is comprised of nineteen terraces along the slope of Mount Carmel.  The gardens have gravel walking paths, neatly trimmed hedges, and colorful flower beds.  Since this is a religious site, they do ask visitors to dress modestly and behave appropriately.  Not a place to bring your dog and a Frisbee!

Entrance to the gardens is free, where you can walk the grounds every day of the week, except for Wednesdays.  They also have free walking tours, which run about an hour, and are conducted in Hebrew, English, and Russian.  During the tour, visitors learn about the design and maintenance of the gardens, as well as their significance in the Baha'i faith.  In addition to the gardens, there is also shrine which visitors are free to explore.

In case you are wondering why this religious site is located in Israel... here's the story from the Baha'i  website:

The Prophet-Founder, Bahá’u’lláh, was banished from his homeland and eventually exiled to Akko during the Ottoman Period.  He lived in Akko for the last 24 years of His life (1868-1892), and is buried in Bahjí, in the northern part of the city.  The remains of the Báb were brought from Iran and buried in Haifa in accordance with the instructions of Bahá’u’lláh, who also decided that the administrative institutions of the future Bahá’í community would have their seat on Mount Carmel.

The gardens were built to provide a fitting approach to and setting for the shrines in which the founders of the Bahá’í religion are buried. The gardens create a quiet and tranquil environment which help Bahá’ís to prepare themselves to visit their holy places. 

Day 44 - The Knesset

You wouldn't think that going to see the Israeli parliment would be a very interesting tourist attraction.  However, I think that visiting the Knesset in Jerusalem could actually be quite fascinating.

In Judaism we have a motto, "two Jew, three opinions".  Essentially, that means that Jewish people are very vocal on their beliefs and never hesitate to voice their concerns.  So take that recipe for Jewish interaction and add in a diverse political mix of people all working together (and sometimes ... not so together) to run a country, and you've got the Knesset.

To get an idea of just how "heated" the sessions can become, in October 1957, a visitor threw a hand-grenade toward's the speaker.  The Minister of Religions was critically wounded and the Prime Minister, David Ben Gurion, and Foreign Minister, Golda Meir, both sustained light injuries.  As a result, the Visitors Gallery had to be enclosed in bullet-proof glass. The man repsonsible, Moshe Dwek, served a 15 year prison sentence and when he was released he had the "chutzpah" to run for Knesset seat in the 1988 election.  He lost. 

Knesset is the Hebrew word for "gathering" or "assembly".  In Israel, the Knesset is responsible for passing laws, electing the President and Prime Minister (yes, in Israel they have two different leaders!), approves the cabinet, and supervises the government.  The Knesset is comprised of 120 members from 18 different political parties.  Phew!  All Israeli citizens, regardless of their religion, are allowed to vote and/or be elected to the Knesset.

Free tours of the Knesset are offered Sunday through Thursday in the following languages:  Hebrew, Arabic, English, French, Spanish, German, Russion, and Amharic.  Here is a list of the tours available:

General Tour -  provides an overview of the role and responsibilities of the Knesset and introduces visitors to the works of art located in the main building.  The art work includes several different wall tapestries and floor mosaics designed especially for the Knesset by Marc Chagall.  (1 hour)

Archaeology Tour - self-guided walking tour of the Knesset's own archaeology park, comprised of artifacts found in Jerusalem digs  (Go at your own pace)

Architecture Tour - focuses on the architectural design of the Knesset building and explains how the building was designed to represent the values of democracy.  (2 hours)

Art & Photography Tour -  features all the art works on display in the Knesset - paintings, photographs, sculptures, and archeological exhibits.  Artists featured include:  Marc Chagall, Moshe Castel, Re'uven Rubin, and David Rubinger.  (2 hours)

Democracy in Practice Tour - provides a detailed overview of the election process and  the roles of the Knesset members.  The highlight of this tour is Declaration of Independence display.  This tour is geared for visitors who are especially interested in the parliamentary process. (1 1/2 hours)

Law Tour - a combined tour of the Knesset and the Israeli Supreme Court.  Special emphasis is given to the process of laws, from legislation to enforcement.  (3 hours)

It is going to be hard for me to narrow down the choices to just one tour.  With my love of art, I feel compelled to take the Art & Photography tour.  However, I would also like to go on the General Tour and the Archaeology Tour.  Hmmm, if I want to go on several tours, it looks like I will have to dedicate almost half a day for visiting the Knesset.  Who would have thought I'd want to spend so much time in a government building?

One of the wall tapestries created especially for the Knesset by Marc Chagall.

Day 43 - Cave of Machpelah

I first learned of the Cave of Machpelah last year, while teaching a Hebrew class.  The Cave of Machpelah (known in english as the "Cave of the Patriarchs & Matriarchs") is one of the most ancient Jewish sites in the world.  Second, only to the Western Wall in Jerusalem, it is the holiest site of the Jewish people.

Located in the city of Hebron (in the controversial "West Bank" region) the cave was purchased by Abraham - almost 4000 years ago.  He bought the land to bury his beloved wife Sarah, who had died.  According to the Bible, Abraham, Isaac, Jacob, Rebecca, and Leah were later buried in the same cave.  The only matriarch missing is Rachel, who was buried on the road to Bethlehem after she died in childbirth.

Over the centuries, different religious groups have used the land for their own purposes.  During the Crusades, the Christians transformed into a church.  Later, the Muslims turned it into a mosque.  While under Islamic rule, for almost 700 years, Jews were forbidden to enter the structure, and could not even advance past the seventh step on the staircase outside.

During the Six Day War in 1967,  the Chief Rabbi of the Israel Defense Forces, the late Major-General Rabbi Shlomo Goren, was the first Jew to enter the Cave of Machpelah in hundreds of years. Since then, Jews have still been struggling to regain rights to gain full access the site, as it is still under control of the Muslim Waqf.  Currently, Jews can only access to the main/largest section the cave (Ohel Yitzhak) 10 days a year.

Before I head off to Israel, I will be sure to research if my trip coincides with any of the days open to Jewish visitors.  Even though I really won't "see" anything and I will probably be taking my life into my own hands by going to the this highly volatile part of Israel, I almost feel that I need to make the pilgrimage as a gesture of Jewish solidarity.  In addition, seeing as how my Hebrew name is Rachel, I think I that visiting the Cave of the Patriarchs & Matriarchs is somehow a must for me.

Grate that allows visitors to look down the 40 ft shaft into the cave.

Day 42 - Middle East Meets Far East

What could be more eclectic than a Japanese Art museum located in the middle of Israel?  Which is why I think the Tikotin Museum of Japanese Art is so very interesting.  Located in the city of Haifa, this one-of-a-kind museum was created for the sole purpose of encouraging Israelis to learn more about the art and culture of Japan.

Established in 1959, the museum was founded by Felix Tikotin, an Architect from Holland, and Abba Khoushy, the Mayor of Haifa.  Tikotin's passion in life was Japanese Art and he was an avid collector.  During WWII, because he was a German Jew, Tikotin was forced to flee from the Nazis and so he hid his art collection in Holland.  After the war, he decided to move his art collection to Israel, with the intention of donating it to a museum.  However, upon meeting the Mayor of Haifa, Tikotin decided to build a museum in Haifa designed especially for this unique style of art.

Once the museum was completed, Tikotin began traveling the world to add even more artwork to the collection.  Today, the museum has more than 7,000 art items, which include: paintings, prints, drawings, painted screens, textiles, illustrated texts, ceramics, carvings, metal work, and swords.  It was Tikotin's dream to not only display Japanese art, but to also use the museum to teach others about the Japanese culture.  Therefore, the museum conducts workshops and classes on: the Japanese language, calligraphy, Japanese flower arrangement, and cooking.  The majority of these programs are designed specifically for schoolchildren.

The Tikotin Museum of Japanese Art must meet with the approval of Japan, because in 2000, they awarded the museum the Japan Foundation Special Award.  This prestigious award is presented annually to select institutions that enhance the understanding of the academics or culture of Japan.

I think it would be a great opportunity to check out the art of the Far East, while I'm traveling through the Middle East.  So, I will have to remember to stop off here, while I am in Haifa.  Thank goodness Felix Tikotin was able to save his lovely art collection and keep it from the Nazis. 

Day 41 - Midnight Biking in Jerusalem

Okay, this just sounds like so much fun.  I can't believe something like this doesn't exist in every big city - all around the world!

An Israeli entrepreneur, Moshe Gold, has come up with a really unique way to tour the city of Jerusalem - via bicycle.  The name of tour group is: Jerusalem Midnight Biking.  The tour guides small groups of people, about eight at a time, on a quiet ride through Jerusalem.  They say that cycling through the city's streets and alleys, allows tourists to see both old and new Jerusalem in a magical manner.  The three hour tour begins at 9:30 pm and goes until 1:00 am.  All in all, the tour covers 14 kilometers (approximately 8 miles).

The tour guides are both skilled cyclists and knowledgeable tour guides, who make it a point to educate the riders on the history of all the sites they pass.  While riders do have to have some prior cycling experience, the bike ride is intended to be a scenic tour, not a race.

The tour guides say that a tour like this would be simply impossible during the day.  After all, with a population of approximately 800,000 people, Jerusalem is a busy and bustling city.  So, only the wee small hours of the night could afford such a quiet and peaceful bike ride.

The tour begins at the Armon HaNatziv promenade, which overlooks most of Jerusalem and offers stunning views of the city.  The route continues through the Jewish and Arab neighborhoods of Abu-Tor and Yemin Moshe.  Next, riders pass through the Jaffa Gate, one of Jerusalem's eight gates in Jerusalem's Old City walls, and continues the Christian and Jewish Quarters of the Old City.  Finally, the tour concludes on Mount Zion, which is just south of the Old City.  Mount Zion includes many important sites: King David's Tomb; Hagia Maria Sion Abbey; Room of the Last Supper; and the Chamber of the Holocaust (an early Holocaust museum).

There is also a Catholic cemetery on Mount Zion, where Oskar Schindler (of the film "Schindler's List") was buried.  Schindler is considered a "Righteous Gentile", because of his brave efforts to save 1,200 Jews during the Holocaust.  It was Schindler's last wish to be buried in Jerusalem.  Since he died penniless in Germany, the Jews who Schindler saved took it upon themselves to have him buried at Mount Zion.  His grave is one of the most visited in all of Jerusalem.
   
I think that Midnight Biking in Jerusalem sounds awesome.  Since I am a night owl, a tour like this would be right up my alley.  I think that touring the city at night would provide such a different perspective than during the day.  Most of all, I think that seeing the lights of Jerusalem sparkle at night must be quite magical.

Day 40 - Jerusalem's City of Ice

Jerusalem is usually referred to as "The City of Gold", but for the past few months it has also been known as "The City of Ice".  This Spring, a very cool exhibit - the Jerusalem Ice Festival - came to town for several months, March through May.  Housed in Jerusalem's "Old Railway Station", the festival includes ice sculptures of the cities old and modern sites, such as: the Jaffa Gate, Tower of David, Israel Museum, and the city's Light Rail.  There were also sculptures to represent fairy tales and Biblical stories.  The exhibit also includes ice slides for kids and an ice bar for the grown-ups.

While the festival was sponsored by the city of Jerusalem, the exhibit was built by artists from both China and Israel.  To keep all that ice from melting, the buildings that house the exhibit had to be set to -10 degrees Celcius (14 degrees Fahrenheit).  Brrrrrrrrr.  However, warm coats are distributed at the entrance to keep visitors warm.  How sweet is that?

This year was the first Jerusalem Ice Festival, but since it was so popular I am hoping it will be come an annual tradition.  This exhibition looks pretty cool.

Day 39 - Oasis in the Desert

I have always loved the image of an "oasis in the desert".  A magical spot, with trees and pools of water, in the midst of an arid landscape.  Little did I know, that such a mythical spot exists for real in Israel.  Known to Israelis as Ein Gedi (Hebrew for "Goat Springs"), this stunning Nature Reserve has a series of natural springs and a stunning waterfall.

Located near the Dead Sea, the Ein Gedi Nature Reserve is supposed to be the same place where David (i.e. of David & Goliath fame, King of Israel, etc.) hid from the crazed and vengeful King Saul. "In the wilderness of Ein-Gedi, Saul took three thousand chosen men from all Israel to search for David upon the rocks of the wild goats." (1 Samuel 24:1-3)  This biblical reference, is probably why the hidden waterful was named "David's Waterfall".

In addition to stunning waterfall, this oasis in the desert is home to tons of different plants, birds, and animals.  During the Spring and Fall migration periods, over 200 additional bird species stop off at Ein Gedi to hang out for a spell.   

Kibbutz Ein Gedi, which is located close-by has an abundance of natural spring waters, which allows them to grow a lot of out-of-season produce. The kibbutz also has an extensive botanical garden, that is about 25 acres in size.  The botanical garden receives many visitors because of it's 900 plant species that come from all over the world.  Gee, it almost sounds like a mini "Garden of Eden" doesn't it?

Day 38 - Dreams and Visions Gallery

Kabbalah, a form of Jewish mysticism, is studied all over the world.  It became especially popular when Madonna, and other Hollywood celebrities, began making it trendy with their red-string bracelets.  Despite it's global practice, the heart of this Jewish spirtual movement has always had it's heart in Israel.

Over two thousand years ago, when the Romans occupied the Land of Israel, Rabbi Shimon Bar Yochai began speaking up against Jewish oppression.  In response, the Romans issued a death decree against the rabbi, so he and his son fled to a cave.  While in hiding, Rabbi Shimon learned, through divine inspiration, all the secrets hidden in the Torah.  Years later, when the death decree was finally revoked, Rabbi Shimon began to travel throughout the North of Israel, quietly teaching these secrets to others.  The collection of these teachings can be found in a book called The Zohar.

For many centuries, the study of Kabbalah was limited to a few rabbinic scholars in each generation. During the Middle Ages, many of these sages made their way to Israel after the Spanish Expulsion of the Jews in 1492.  The majority went to Safed, a city in Northern Israel.  This location had a special connection to Kabbalah because it was near where Rabbi Shimon had taught, as well as where he was buried on Mt. Meron.  At the elevation of 2,953 feet, Safed is the highest city in Israel, and is one of the few areas that receives snow in the winter.

In addition to the study of Kaballah, the city of Safed has become a haven for artists. One such artist is Chaya Shaiman, a Kabbalistic glassblower and painter.  Chaya is an "Israeli-By-Choice". She grew up in Denver, Colorado, and studied Art at Princeton University. Upon graduation, she visited Israel, fell in love with the country, and decided to immigrate. She had a strong desire to live in Israel and become part of Safed's Artist Colony.

The Dreams and Visions Gallery (I just love that name), is owned and operated by Chaya, and includes a wonderful collection of watercolor paintings that all focus on Jewish mysticism.  In addition, Chaya gives presentations on such topics as: Kabbalah of Glassblowing, Connecting to the Land of Israel, Expressionist Water Color, and Women's Wisdom.

How do you choose from that lineup? I think I would want to sign up for them all!  A trip to the mystical city of Safed is definitely on my top ten list.  And, visiting the "Dreams and Visions Gallery" sounds just incredible.

Dreams and Visions Gallery

Day 37 - Between the Cracks

Okay.  After yesterday's post, about the not-so-nice stuff at the Western Wall, I thought I should highlight something positive to help balance it out.

Over the years, visitors to the Western Wall have developed a custom of placing notes in the cracks of Wall.  The Chief Rabbi of the Western Wall, Rabbi Rabinowitz, says the tradition of leaving notes started nearly 300 years ago when a rabbi sent his students with a prayer in writing because he was unable to make the journey.  Furthermore, the Talmud teaches that all prayers ascend to heaven through Jerusalem. 

Today, with the 5 million people that visit the Western Wall each year, the cracks in the Wall are just bulging from all the notes.  As the cracks become full, the caretakers of the Western Wall had to find a way to manage all the "paper work".  So, twice a year, Rabbi Rabinowitz and his team "sweep" the Wall with wooden sticks.  Their mission is to collect all the notes and then bury them on Jerusalem's Mount of Olives.  The notes are treated with great respect and never read.  In addition to the notes from the Wall, the hundreds of letters received by the post office (addressed to "God in Jerusalem") are buried at the same place.

As to why the notes are buried?  Jewish law forbids the destruction of "holy text".  Therefore, Jews have always discarded worn out prayer books, bibles, Torah scrolls, etc., by burying them in Jewish cemeteries.  Since the notes left by visitors at the Western Wall are looked upon as "prayers", they are considered to be sacred and are treated with the utmost reverence.

Day 36 - Women of the Wall

When both my sons had their Bar Mitzvahs, I had the honor of being called to read from the Torah.  To which, I donned a prayer shawl, sang the appropriate blessings over the Torah, and began chanting the biblical verses, using the same ancient melody that's been used for thousands of years.  For me, this was an incredible spiritual event and milestone.  My rabbi said my being called to the Torah, was the equivalent of having my own Bat Mitzvah.  Little did I know, that if I had done the same thing at the Western Wall, I would have been arrested.

The Western Wall is under the control of the Chief Rabbinate in Israel.  As such, that means Orthodox Jews call the shots.  While Orthodox Jews are very devout and pious, they also believe in a division - physically and spiritually - between men and women.  When you attend Shabbat services at an Orthodox synagogue, men sit on one side of the room, while women sit on the other.  They even place a barrier between the two sexes, so that the men are not distracted in their prayers.

At the Western Wall, a similar division takes place between men and women.  There is a men's side and a women's side.  Which means that when a Bar Mitzvah ceremony takes place at the Western Wall, women are not permitted to attend - even the mother of the boy!  Sadly, the discrimination of women doesn't end there.  Women who pray at the Western Wall are barred from wearing religious garments (such as a prayer shawl), or reading from the Torah.

It was only two years ago that Anat Hoffman was arrested, fined $1300, and received a thirty day ban from the Western Wall, for the "crime" of  just carrying a Torah.  Isn't that incredible?  The newspapers referred to her as an "Israeli Feminist" - as if it that phrase contained dirty words.

The courageous Ms. Hoffman is the leader of a group in Israel called "Women of the Wall".  Their mission is to seek religious equality for women.  They are not trying to take down the physical barriers that exist between men and women at the Wall.  Instead, they merely want women to have the right to pray the way men do. 

As an American Jewish women, I am feel great empathy for my Israeli sisters.  Living here in the United States, I am free to practice my religion with no restrictions.  It's hard for me to believe that just because I am a woman - when I go to Israel - I am going to lose some of my religious rights.

This all seems to be in direct contradiction with the ideas upon Israel was founded upon - to be a free people in our own land.  How have Jews attained religious freedom when half the population (i.e. the women) are not afforded the same religious rights as men?

This is the first disturbing thing I have discovered about Israel.  I can now understand why the Orthodox Jews and the Secular Jews don't see eye-to-eye on so many things.