Day 103: First Aliyah Museum

Another site to see in Zichron Yaakov is the First Aliyah Museum.  The First Aliyah to Israel was comprised of families.  This brave group of 35,000 pioneers came to Israel between 1882-1904 to escape the pogroms of their native countries.

The museum is located in a very well preserved historical building.  While touring the museum visitors get an intimate introduction to the people of that time - where you learn about their hardships, disappointments, hopes, and victories. The museum features a structured tour which presents the historical sequence of the migration and includes innovative multi-media presentations, which are supplemented with historical documents, old photographs, authentic tools, and sculptures.

The museum is dedicated to Moshe and Sarah Aronson, one of the first settlers that arrived in 1882.  Their story is exhibited through an exciting movie that attempts to chronicle their life in Israel. The museum has three floors and each one describes a different period in time.

Note:  The term "aliyah" is the Hebrew word for "return".  Essentially, aliyah means to return to one's homeland.  When you hear someone refer to "making aliyah", they are referring to making the move to live in Israel.  

Day 102: Aaronson House

In addition to their fine wines (see yesterday's post), one of Zichron Yaakov's most interesting tourist attraction is the Araonson House.  Once a private dwelling, the house is now a museum that chronicles the life of the Aaronson family.  The family was involved with NILI, a Jewish spy ring that worked for the British Military during WWI.  At that time, the Ottoman Turks were in control of Palestine and the British has plans to take over.   The Jews believed that supporting the British would help lead to the birth of a Jewish nation.

The village of Zichron Yaakov served as an important center of activity for the members of NILI,  and especially its leaders.  Led by Avshalom Feinberg and Aaron Aaronson, the leaders of NILI recruited others in the community to spy on behalf of the British.  Two of the recruits were none other than Aaron's two sisters, who were both in love with Avshalom. 

While visiting the Aaronson House, visitors learn all about NILI, their secret codes, and the epic stories of the Aaronson family - which range from romance to intrigue to tragedy.  This museum is not recommended for children.

Day 101: Israel's Napa Valley

Just south of Haifa is a little village called Zichron Yaakov.  If you are an Israeli, you simply refer to the village by it's first name - Zichron. They say that this region is Israel's version of Napa Valley, as it is the home to several different wineries.

The village has an interesting history. Originally called "Zamarin", the first settlers arrived in 1882 from Romania. At that time, the area was an inhospitable place with rocky soil. The early settlers attempted to grow wheat and potatoes. That farming venture was unsuccessful and soon 10% of the population were dead.  Despite all that, the settlers were determined to tough it out.

A European philanthropist was so impressed with these settlers that he approached Baron Edmond de Rothschild in France for financial support. Rothschild sent an envoy to check out the village, who recommended the area would be ideal for vineyards.  Five years later, the Baron visited the village and discovered a thriving community.  At his request, the village was renamed "Zichron Yaacov" (which is Hebrew for "In Memory of Jacob".  However, instead of being in honor of the Biblical patriarch, the village was named in honor of Baron James "Jacob" de Rothschild, who was Edmond's father.

Due to the success of the vineyards, there are many wineries in the area.  Probably the most famous of them all is the Carmel Mizrahi Winery.  It is Israel's largest winery and accounts for about 75% of the country's wine.  Established in the late 1800's, this winery has stood the test of time.   Carmel offers tours and wine tastings, where visitors are invited to learn all about the winery and about the process of making wine.  They strive to educate visitors to the max, by even teaching you how to hold your glass and the best method for tasting all the different wines.

Next up is the Morad Winery.  They too offer tours and include demonstrations on how they incorporate fruits, vegetables, and herbs, into their wines and liqueurs.  The fruits they use are exotic - ranging from passion fruit to pomegranates.  While not quite as established at the Carmel Winery, Morad has been in the wine business for over 40 years.

The Tishbi Winery has something a little different to offer.  In addition to their winery, they also have a tourist center which boasts a popular Kosher dairy restaurant.  The menu includes fresh cheeses from the Hameiri Dairy Farm (which I blogged about earlier), fresh baked bread, and a gourmet chocolate/wine tasting center.  One especially unique feature of the Tishbi Winery is that they have a "filling station", where you are encouraged to bring in your own empty bottle of wine, fill it up, and pay for your wine by the liter.

Other wineries in the area include:  Smadar Winery, Somek Winery, and Poizner Winery.  I could see wanting to spending a few days checking out this cool little village.

Day 100: Climbing Masada With My Sons

My Family - July 4, 1999

Thirteen years ago – I attended a Motivational Seminar, where the keynote speaker challenged us to go home and make a list of 101 goals.  At that time in my life, I was a stay-at-home mom with young children and feeling rather lost.  Wanting to make a change in my life, I took the “homework” to heart and sat down that night to create my list. 

One of the goals, number 9, was “Visit Israel – Climb Mt. Masada with my sons”.  At that time, I was the heaviest weight I had even been in my life and just climbing the stairs was a challenge.  And, my two sons were 3 years old and 19 months.  So to say that my goal - to climb a 1300 foot mountain in Israel - was a lofty one, is not an exaggeration.  However, after attending the seminar I was convinced that sometimes we have to have goals that are larger than life, so we continue to stretch and grow.

I have never forgotten that goal and I have to admit it was instrumental on starting me on my present journey of  "100 Days in Israel".  After 100 days of blogging about this trip of a lifetime, I now feel quite confident that I will get there.  After all the research and posts, there are now so many great experiences beckoning me to get on that plane in two years!  True to form, each blog post has made the possibility of the going more and more real.  I have been transformed from “wanting to go” to “planning to go”.  In my mind, it’s already a done deal.

Over the past 100 days, I have avoiding writing a post about visiting Masada.  Since I am now planning to go to Israel alone, I now know that I will not be fulfilling the dream to “Climb Mt. Masada with my sons”.  At first, I toyed with the idea that perhaps we could time separate trips to Israel together – as both my sons have decided to definitely take advantage of a Birthright Trip.  However, the logistics of doing that would really be a challenge.  Plus, when they go on their trips, they need to be free to enjoy the whole experience with the group they are with.  So in the end, I have just had to accept that I am not going to be able to fulfill the second part of my goal.

Last night, as I was thinking that today would be my 100^th post, I began reflecting on the goal I wrote down 13 years ago and saw it from a new light.  I began to think that perhaps the goal was really just a metaphor for the kind of parent I wanted to become?  After all, there must have been a reason I picked Mt. Masada as the destination and climbing to the top as the goal.

Masada is more than just a mountain in Israel.  Masada is one of the Jewish people’s greatest symbols.  Next to visiting Jerusalem, it is the most popular destination of Jewish tourists when visiting Israel. To understand the significance of Masada, you have to know a little about it’s history.  In 74 A.D. a group of Jewish rebels, fighting the Roman army after the destruction of the Temple in Jerusalem, made history by ending their own lives rather than being taken alive by their enemy. This little group of Jews held off the Romans for almost five years - while the Roman soldiers built an enormous ramp up the side of the mountain, with the intent of driving a battering ram through the fortress gates.   When the Romans finally made it inside, they discovered that almost one thousand men, women and children had committed suicide.  Two women and a handful of children survived to tell the tale.

Today, Masada has become a symbol of valor, courage, and conviction for modern-day Jews.  Which is why Israeli soldiers climb the mountain and take an oath there: "Masada shall not fall again."  When I think to who I was thirteen years ago, I was looking for a way to incorporate those qualities into my life and my ability to raise my children.  I wanted to raise my boys to become men that would know what they wanted in life and know they were capable of achieving anything.  I wanted them to be brave enough to reach for the stars and never give up.

As I look at boys now, I know they’ve already “climbed Masada”.   Next week they are leaving for their dream trip to England and France with their Boy Scout troop.  Two years ago, they began doing “whatever it took” to earn the money to pay for the trip.  Whether it was selling food at sporting events, mowing lawns, stacking wood, or pitching hay, they just kept working towards that goal.  Sometimes the road looked very long and hard, but they never gave up.

Like my boys are going to Europe without me, I know that they will go to Israel without me too.  When they finally do visit, I hope their travels will take them to Masada, so that they can appreciate the significance of climbing that mountain – as Jews and as individuals.   In essence, I know that just having that goal for them – way back when they were babies - has made them who they are today.

So, I now feel I can finally release any angst I am feeling about not climbing Masada with my sons.  Instead, I can now accept that establishing that goal made me a better parent – as it gave me the vision to raise my boys to be the kind of people that are not afraid to climb to the top of ANY mountain.

Day 99: July 4th Israeli Style

Well, it looks like you don't need to be in the United States to participate in a huge July 4th celebration.  Tel Aviv, Dan Shapiro, the U.S. Ambassador in Israel, is throwing a party for a few thousand of his closest friends.  The July 4th extravaganza looks totally awesome and promises to have enough food, drink, and music, for everyone to celebrate in style. 

The Independence Day bash is being held tonight (July 3rd) at 7:00 pm and is going to be streamed live on the internet.  This party is an "invitation only" event, which kind of makes you wonder who you have to be to get on the guest list?  I do know that both the Israeli President and Prime Minister will not only be in attendance, but are both scheduled to give speeches.

Musical entertainment throughout the evening will be provided by an ensemble from the Israeli Conservatory of Music and a U.S. Military Band.  The evening will conclude with a fireworks display above the cliffs of the Mediterranean!

Independence Celebration in Israel

Day 98: Scroll of Fire

They say that the Scroll of Fire is one of Israel's most beautiful sculptures.   The Scroll of Fire is a bronze sculpture that is almost 30 feet tall and attempts to tell the story of the Jewish people from the Holocaust up to the Six Day War.

This incredible work of art is located in the center of an area known as the Matryrs Forest, which is on the outskirts of Jerusalem.  Comprised of six million trees, the Martyrs Forest is probably the largest memorial to the Holocaust in the world.  Four and half million pine trees symbolize the adults who died in the Holocaust while another one and a half million cypress trees represent the children.

The Scroll of Fire was sculpted by Nathan Rapoport.  It is comprised of two pillars.  The scroll on the right focuses on the holocaust and its survivors while the scroll on the left deals with the struggle to establish a new homeland.  The artwork has a number of recurring elements: mother and child, an olive tree/branch, a menorah and much symbolism.   With incredible detail, Rapoport depicts the somber events of the concentration camps and death marches, the strength and rebellion of the Warsaw Ghetto, the plight of the Jews pioneers reviving the Jewish homeland, as well as Israeli soldiers fighting for the nation's freedom.

When interviewed about this sculpture, the artist conveyed his belief that art helps to tell the story of a nation's past - it helps preserve it's history.  A plaque near the base of the sculpture reads:  “My words have been made of bronze and stone, they are silent, heavy and longstanding.” Nathan Rapoport.

I definitely plan to visit this area.  I think that an entire forest dedicated to all those that died in the Holocaust is an incredible memorial.  I also think that when an artist creates such a detailed sculpture - photographs can never do it justice.  Instead, it deserves to be seen and appreciated up close and personal.

Day 97: Canada Eh?

Today is a holiday that has no meaning to anyone in my family, but me.  July 1st is Canada Day, the country's birthday.  Even though I have lived in the United States for 27 years now (wow - that's a long time!), Canadian holidays still make me homesick.  Just in case, I haven't mentioned it, I was born and raised in Canada. 

So when one thinks of Canada, the first thing that usually comes to mind is "ice skating".  Afterall, think of all the contributions that the country of Canada has made to the great sport of hockey.  Not to mention - the king of the rink - Wayne Gretzky.  I know that when he got married in Canada, it was as popular as when Princess Diana married Prince Charles.  Okay, so what on earth does Canada have to do with Israel?  Well, apparently Canada is a strong supporter of the Jewish homeland.  

Let me tell you about Israel's Canada Centre, which is located in the town of Metula, in Northern Israel.  Canada Centre is the home of Israel's largest ice arena and apparently is a really popular tourist attraction. Not surprising considering that you probably don't come across a lot of ice rinks in the Middle East!  In addition to ice skating, the center has a huge swimming pool, hot tubs, wet and dry saunas, table tennis, basketball courts, and a shooting range. 

They also have a few "Canadian content" sports, such as squash courts (think racquetball), and snooker (think billiards).  The center also has a bowling alley, however, I'm not sure if it is the American 10-pin version, or the traditional Canadian 5-pin version?  As far as I can tell, the only sport that is missing is Curling.  That is a popular sport in Canada, where players sweep a stone down the ice.  My husband thinks that curling is is the most ridiculous sport in the world, but I've tried it and though it was actually quite fun.  It's one of those sports that looks easy... but it's a lot of work.

In case you are wondering how Israel's Canada Centre came into being, it was funded by the Jewish community in Canada.  Only Canadians see spreading the gospel of hockey as their mission in the world!  I must say though, that the Israelis have put the generous gift to good use.  They have already turned out a handful of world-class skaters - they took the bronze medal in 2002.  In addition, Israel now has over 500 registered hockey players, and they now have an eight-team Israeli Hockey League.  

Way to go Israel!  And way to go Canada for bringing such a cool place (literally) to the desert.  I wonder how you say "eh" in Hebrew?

Day 96: Jerusalem Botanical Gardens

For my birthday this year, my husband promised to build me a waterfall for my back garden.  Ever since we moved into this house, I have been wanting a secret little garden, that I could call my own.  Last year, it began with a bench, where I could sit and just be.  This year, my garden has gotten more elaborate, with a zen-like water feature.

When I discovered that Jerusalem had a really nice botanical garden,  I just knew I'd want to visit.  This place sounds really awesome.  It is a 30-acre nature retreat - right in the heart of Israel's largest city.  With shady paths, small waterfalls, and even a private lake, it just sounds so tranquil.

They say the best time to visit is in the Spring, as that's the time of year most of the flowers are in bloom. The garden has over 10,000 species of flower, from all around the world.  And, it also claims to have the largest collection of bonsai trees in the entire world!  I thought that was kind of unusual.

The garden is organized by geographic region, with separate sections for: Europe, Africa, Australia, Asia, and the Mediterranean.  In addition, they also have a herb garden and a tropical house.  Since the gardens are located in Israel, it's only fitting that they have a section devoted exclusively to plants of the Bible.  That section alone consists of over 70 plant species.

Regarding tours, several different options exist, ranging from a walking tour, segway tour, and self-guided tours with maps.  They even have a small train that runs along the perimeter of the park, that visitors can climb aboard for a guided tour. Personally, I think I would prefer to just meander along the pathways and breathe in the quiet.  Just take some time to stop and smell the flowers - literally.

P.S.  Two days ago, my husband finished building the waterfall for my backyard.  It has totally exceeded expectations and I am one step closer to having the secret garden of my dreams.

Day 95: Arad Glass Museum

I seem to be learning more and more about art.  For instance, I did not know that "glass art" was a genre. I guess it is in Israel and it's big enough to warrant it's own museum.  The Arad Glass Museum is located in the Negev desert, near the Dead Sea.  The collection is extensive and includes the art work of over 20 Israeli glass artists.

The museum was founded by Gideon Fridman, a local artist.  His earlier art was based in stone and one of his sculptures is set at the entrance of Arad and has become the city's symbol.

Gideon has been working with glass now for over thirty years.  He says that for many years he kept his art work to himself, and didn't even show it to his family. When he decided to reveal his unique art the family was amazed and delighted.  Plans soon began, to create a museum to showcase his work.  (Talk about some incredible family support!)

Gideon's vision of his art work, is similar to the feelings he has of living in the Negev desert.

"People think that glass is cold and monotonous but actually it is dynamic, alive and reflects much warmth in it and through it."

The Arad Glass Museum houses a permanent exhibit of Gideon Fridman's work, as well as the works of other Israeli glass artists.  Every few months, a new artist is featured. The museum offers a guided tour, three display halls, a glass art workshop, a library, and a shop with art for sale.

Day 94: Bible Lands Museum

It is only appropriate that Israel, often referred to as "The Holy Land", is the home of the Bible Lands Museum.  Located in Jerusalem, this is the only museum in the world dedicated to the biblical history of the many lands listed in the Bible.

Like so many other museums in Israel, the core collection originated from the private collection of it's founder - Elie Borowski.  Being an international dealer in ancient art, Dr. Borowski was able to amass a unique collection of ancient treasures.

Inside the museum, there are twenty galleries that feature the various civilizations that lived in the Middle East.  One exhibit of particular interest to me is the gallery dedicated to the history of writing.  It contains hieroglyphics, cuneiform, and other ancient texts.  Many different cultures are featured in the museum's collection, including the: Sumerians, Canaanites, Assyrians, Philistines, Romans, Christians, and of course the Jews.

The museum also has collection of musical instruments that would have been used in the Holy Temple.  To complement the museum's love of music, they host Saturday night concerts that showcase ethnic music.  Visitors can enjoy performances from flamenco artists to Yemenite percussion ensembles.

Location:
25 Granot Street (across the parking lot from the Israel Museum)
Tel: 972-2-5611066

​Day 93: Bottle-Tree Kibbutz

Okay, a kibbutz that specializes in growing lemons in a bottle, how cool is that?

Kibbutz Ein Zurim is the home of the Bottle Tree, an artisan center.  Located an hour away from Tel Aviv, they specialize in the production of citrus fruit and blossoms that grow in specially designed bottles.  Their goal is to bring the scents of the Holy Land from the orchard to your home.

Following an ancient Persian tradition, the lemons are specially grown in unique bottles.  Once picked, the lemon is suspended in alcohol for a year to distill.  The mixture of alcohol and citral, enhances the aroma and gives the citrus increased shelf-life.

The lemons grow in a variety of bottles and their citrus scents are all made from genuine whole flowers from citrus orchards in Israel.  For anyone that is curious to know "how they do it?", visitors are invited to pop into the Bottle Tree Visitor Center, to watch the process. 

And if that is not enough, while you are on the kibbutz you can also check out Studio Meshi.  This artisan studio specializes in silk painting, which you can observe in person.  Silk artworks include: scarves, challah covers, and talitot (ie. prayer shawls).  Each of the painted silk creations are unique and individually made. All of the Bottle Tree products can also be purchased online from their Etsy store.

This is one kibbutz I definitely plan to visit.  They even have a guest house with suites and rooms.  In addition to learning about the locally made artisan products, I can also spend time at this religious kibbutz, eating kosher food and learning Torah.   How exciting.

Day 92: Islamic Art Museum

Again, I am always touched by how art bring people together, and the art community of Israel is no exception. The L.A. Mayer Memorial Institute for Islamic Art was founded by Vera Bryce Salomons, in honor of her friend and teacher, Leo Arie Mayer.  A professor of Islamic Art & Architecture at the Hebrew University in Jerusalem, Mayer was dedicated to building bridges between Jews and Arabs.

The museum has an extensive collection of Islamic art dating from the 7th century to the present.  Exhibits items include: Arabic calligraphy, chess pieces, dominos, antique playing cards, daggers, swords, helmets, jewelry, glass, pottery, metal-ware, textiles, and carpets.  The core of the museum's collection is from Professor Mayer's own personal collection and  additional acquisitions made by Mrs. Salomons.

In addition to the main collection, there is also a gallery dedicated to the "Art of Time".  The gallery contains a collection of watches and clocks that belonged to Sir David Lionel Salomons (Vera's father).  Most of the time pieces are from Paris, France, dating back to the 18th-19th centuries.  These look really cool.

The museum offers guided tours, which are available in three languages: English, Arabic, and Hebrew.  In addition, they host workshops from time to time on various art topics.  This museum has become a popular fieldtrip for both Arabic and Jewish schoolchildren.

L. A. Mayer Museum for Islamic Art

2, Hapalmach Street

Jerusalem, Israel

Day 91: Show Me the Money

Well, I figure it's about high time for me to learn about the monetary system in Israel.  I reckon if I am going to visit the country, I will need to learn about the currency they use.  Now, seems as good a time as any.

The currency of the State of Israel is the New Israel Shekel (NIS).  Bank notes are in denominations of 20, 50, 100, and 200 NIS.  They also have Shekel coins for the lower denominations of 1, 5 ,and 10. 

In addition to the Shekel, the other currency unit is Agora.  It takes 100 Agorot (that's plural for Agora) to equal one Shekel.  Agorot are available in 1, 5, and 10 units.

If you think the word "shekel" sounds familiar, it is because it is was an ancient monetary unit that appeared in the Bible.  Back then, money was actually measured by it's weight, so one shekel was the equivalent of one ounce.  

When the Modern State of Israel was born, they used Pounds as their currency.  Most likely this was because of the long rule of the British in Palestine.  It wasn't until 1980 that Israel decided to personalize their money and the modern shekels was born.  Then in 2003, the "old shekel", which really wasn't that old yet, was replaced with the "new shekel".  

While the rate of exchange varies from day to day, essentially here's the value:

 1 USA dollar =  3.91 NIS  (or you could buy 1 shekel with a US quarter)


One final interesting note about Israel's money is that they actually have Braille printed into it.  This allows the blind to correctly identify the amount on each bill.  Hmm... makes you wonder why we don't do that in America?  Especially since our bills are all the same size.

Day 90: Palmach Museum

Palmach at Kibbutz Beit Oren 1942

Yesterday, I picked up my son from his Civil Patrol Boot Camp.  It was a hot, windy, and dusty day in the Nevada Desert. When I saw where he'd been all week, I really was amazed that he survived the experience.  This would be a hard place to be up at the crack of dawn and doing PT.  My son's military endurance must be in his genes, because he loved the entire experience.  So to wrap up my son's Boot Camp week, this is final IDF related post.  

The Palmach Museum, located in Tel Aviv, is dedicated to the brave men and women of the Palmach, who played an important role in the birth of Israel.  Palmach is a Hebrew acronym for the word "strike force".  

The Palmach were an elite fighting force that arose during the period of the Britsih Mandate of Palestine.  Established in 1941, the Palmach was founded to help the British defend Israel (then called Palestine) against the approaching German armies. In the fall of 1942, as the threat of invasion receded, the British authorities ordered the dismantling of the Palmach,which caused the group to go underground.

Instead of living in barracks, the Palmach units were stationed in Kibbutzim (plural for kibbutz) across the country, where they combined their military training with farm work.  They did this in order to support themselves.  During the outbreak of the Israeli War of Independence in 1948, the group was 2000 strong. Once Israel existed as a country, there was no longer a need for the force, so they disbanded in 1950.  

When you visit the Palmach Museum, the goal is for you to "experience" this part of Israel's history.  Therefore, instead of having displays for you to see, you learn the stories of the people with the aid of 3-D decor, films, and documentary materials.  During your tour, you join a group of young Palmach recruits and learn about the brave freedom fighters.

All visits to the museum must be pre-arranged - there is no "drop-in" option.  Tours are carried out in groups of up to 25 people.  For anyone who visits on their own, they are teamed up with another tour group.  The tour is about 90 minutes long and is presented in five languages simultaneoulsy:  English, French, Spanish, Russian, and Hebrew.  Translations are provided by headsets.  

I really don't know much about the Palmach, except for the fact that - Yitzach Rabin who was Israel's 5th Prime Minister was one of the first recruits to join the group.  Rabin was Israel's first native-born Prime Minister, won the Nobel Peace Prize with Yasser Arafat, and was later assassinated by a radical Jewish Israeli. 

Day 89: Armored Corps Museum

Well today I am off on a day long trip to pick up my son from Civil Air Patrol Boot Camp.  The drive there and back is 10 hours, throw in another 1-2 hour for the "graduation ceremony" and discharge, followed by dinner somewhere on the way home - and it's a long day!  Military life is hard.

So in honor of my Jewish American Soldier, I thought I would write another blog post on the IDF.  It is said that the IDF Armored Corps Museum has one of the best collections of armored vehicles in the world.  Located in Latrun, Israel, the museum has over 200 tanks and many of them are not Israeli.  Instead, much of the collection has been acquired through international trade or the "spoils of war".  

An exhibit of special note is the "Allied Forces Monument" which is Israel's salute to all the military forces that joined together to fight the Nazis during  WWII.  The monument contains flags from 19 different countries that constituted the allies.  In addition, there's also a flag for the Jewish Brigade, which was part of the British army.

No war museum is complete without a memorial dedicated to fallen soldiers.  The Armored Corps Museum has a wall honoring 4,873 Israeli soldiers.  Such monuments always bring home the point that the ultimate sacrifice of war is the loss of life.

On the grounds of the museum houses is a Trappist Monastery.  Apparently, back in 1890, French Trappist monks built a monastery and vineyard.  The monks that live there, have taken a vow of silence, and support themselves by growing grapes for wine and olives for oil.

When you add it all together - it's a nice balance of war and peace.

Day 88: Double Decker Bus Tour

My kids are getting ready to leave in a few weeks for a trip to England with their Boy Scout troop.  For my older son, it will be a repeat trip, but for my younger son, it will be his first venture "across the pond".  Of course, no trip to England is complete without a ride on a double-decker bus, so the Scout troop already has their tickets purchased.  So imagine my surprise when I saw that they have double-decker bus tours in Israel!

That's right, in Jerusalem, you can hop aboard a double-decker bus for a two hour tour of the city.  The Route 99 Egged City Tour Bus, takes visitors all over the city with a "digital tour guide" providing the running commentary.   Riders don headphones and can choose from eight different languages - English, French, German, Russian, Italian, Spanish, Arabic, and Hebrew.

In addition, riders can choose to sit downstairs in the comfort of air conditioning, or upstairs which has an open-top.  Unlike jolly old England, where they experience a lot of rain, you are probably safe to sit up top and enjoy the sunshine.  Plus, since there are no windows upstairs, it probably is better for taking pictures.

The cost of the two hour tour is 60 Shekels ($15 US dollars).  The only caveat is that the two hour tour does not allow for any "hopping on or off".  If you want the flexibilty to do that, you are better off buying a 12 hour pass, which cost 80 Shekels ($20 US dollars). I think this sounds like a really fun way to see the city of Jerusalem.  I can't wait to check this out.

Day 87: Going Home

This past week, I learned of the tragic death of a family I knew of back in Arizona.  They were members of the synagogue we used to belong to. My sons were in the same class as their kids at Religious School.  The mom and dad I knew casually as parents you chit chat with while waiting for your children to be dismissed from Hebrew School.

While their senseless deaths are just devastating, I found it particularly sad that this family was planning a trip to Israel this summer. Since the mother was a native born Israeli, they were "going home" to visit family.

I learned that the Israeli relatives have arrived in the United States to take the mother and three children back to Israel for burial.  The family is requesting donations to help pay for the transportation and burial costs.  Because cremation is traditionally not accepted in Judaism, the cost of transporting four bodies internationally is going to be very expensive.  The family is so committed to fulfilling this goal (it was the mom's wish) that they are prepared to mortgage their home to make it happen.

Since going to Israel is my dream, it only seems right that I do something to help this family get there too.  So, yesterday I went to the bank and made a donation to the family's burial fund.  It just breaks my heart to think that this family's summer trip to Israel was hijacked from a vacation to their final resting place.

I don't know if I will ever hear where the family is buried.  But if I do, I will be sure to pay my respects by placing a small stone on each grave.  This age-old Jewish tradition helps preserve the memory of the deceased.  Just as a stone lasts forever - so too does the soul.

Day 86: Mahal Brigade

Many Jews, from all over the world, feel compelled to go to Israel and do their part to support the Jewish homeland.  Non-Israelis are welcome to volunteer as soldiers for the IDF in the Mahal Brigade.

As part of this program, your volunteer experience runs for about 14 months.  If you are not fluent in Hebrew (yes, there is a test), then you need to plan for an additional 4 months at the beginning to learn Hebrew at the program's Ulpan.  As an FYI, "ulpan" is the Hebrew word for study.  Ulpan's are offered all across Israel and what they are is an intensive Hebrew immersion - so that immigrants and/or visitors can quickly learn the language of the country.  In addition to learning Hebrew, students at an ulpan are taught about Israeli culture, history, and geography.

The Mahal Brigade is only open to young people, men must be younger than 24 and women must be younger than 21. Here is how your time is spent as a Mahal Brigade volunteer:

#1.  Hebrew Fluency
New recruits spend 3 months becoming fluent in Hebrew.  As part of that three month intensive language training, volunteers receive 3 weeks of IDF Pre-Basic Training.

#2. IDF Basic Training 
Volunteers spend 4 1/2 months being trained as a soldier.  Skills taught include:  military discipline, arms training, first aid, and PE. skills. For those opting for non-combat positions, the training period is only 3 weeks.

#3. Active Service
Volunteers spend the next months, until discharge, on active duty with the IDF as full soldiers.  For any volunteers wishing to stay longer, the option for longer active service can be arranged.

Day 85: Marva Program

For the serious military buffs, another IDF experience to look at is the Marva program, which provides two months of outdoor military training.  The program introduces visitors to such experiences as:  navigation, topography, lectures, seminars, walking tours, training exercises, and life in the field.  They say this is not for the feint of heart, because military-style discipline is part of the deal.

Hmmm... I am thinking of that scene from Officer and a Gentleman, when Richard Gere is being yelled at something awful.  I know that this program that youngest son (who is currently at military camp in Nevada) would just love.

Unlike the Sar-El program, the Marva Program is a fee-based experience.  The cost is $1400, which covers your room, board, and training.  Considering that it runs for two months - it's actually pretty reasonable.

Here's a sample of what the program has to offer.

• Getting to know the rules and army discipline
• Learn about Israeli military history
• Lessons about: wars, history, ethics, conflicts
• Tour sites and bases in the south & north
• Touring Jerusalem & Yad VaShem museum
• Military hike to the field
• Learn how to live like a soldier in the field
• Camouflage and training exercises (night and day)
• Intense physical training & Obstacle courses
• Krav Maga
• Weapon training and shooting range
• Shooting range with heavy weaponry
• Military training exercises  
• Lectures and training with combat soldiers
• Spending the whole week with experienced combat soldiers

Day 84: Sar-El

If a tour of an IDF base is not quite enough to give you a taste of the Israeli military, the next option is to sign up with Sar-El.  The Sar-El program, which is Hebrew for "Service for Israel", is a 2-3 week long volunteer experience.  This program has volunteers living on army bases, where they participate in such activities as:  helping to package food and medicine for soldiers, fixing army equipment, gardening, painting, cleaning, etc. 

The program is open to both men and women, ages 17 and older, as long as they are in good health.  Young people, ages 15-16, can also participate in the program if they are accompanied by a parent.  There doesn't seem to be a ceiling on how old you can be, so this is something that I might actually be able to participate in. Now doesn't that make me feel so old.

From what I understand, volunteers work 8 hours a day, 5 days per week.  In the evening, there are activities and presentations on such topics as:  Hebrew, Israel's History, Jewish Holidays, and the Israeli social/political issues.  During your stay, you can take advantage of at least two site-seeing trips with a your own personal tourguide from the base.  

While participating in the program, volunteers are free to leave the bases on the weekends and travel around the country.  In addition, while serving as a volunteer all your living expenses are taken care of.  This really might be something I might seriously look into.  It sounds like an awesome experience.

Day 83: Touring an IDF Base

Crazy as it sounds, a lot of tourists to Israel put visiting an IDF base on their travel itineraries.  As a matter of fact, this has become so popular with American tourists, that there is now an organization that coordinates all the base tours.

The Friends of the Israel Defense Forces (FIDF), was established in 1981 by a group of Holocaust survivors.  Their mission was to create an organization that would support the men and women who serve in the IDF.  The headquarters for the organization is located in New York City and they 14 regional offices scattered across the United States and Latin America. 

Helping tourists tour an IDF base is just one of the things the FIDF does.  Other projects range from helping children and widows of fallen IDF soliders, helping soldiers in financial need, and providing scholarships to IDF veterans.

For any tourists that are bound for Israel, the FIDF is available to help you include a visit to an IDF base in your travel plans.  Tours usually include a presentation on how the IDF trains it's soldiers, as well as an opportunity to meet and speak with soldiers.  They believe the best way to understand what it means to be a soldier in Israel is to meet the brave young men and women.  While visiting the base, most tours end with the obligatory photo op for a picture with a tank. 

Day 82: Israeli Defense Force

Today my youngest son is off to "boot camp" for a week.  He is a cadet in the Civil Air Patrol (aka Jr. Air Force) and this is the equivalent of their "summer camp".  He will spend the next seven days, as if he was a new recruit in the Armed Forces.  Which essentially means, up at the crack of dawn, Physical Exercise, classes, drills, boot shining, and whatever else they have in store for him.  You know that it's going to be a busy week when the packing list tells you not to bring any books.  When my little bookworm asked why not, the answer was: "There will be no free time for reading".  Which I guess means - there will be no free time period.

So in honor of my son's departure to the military today, I thought I would blog about the role of the armed services in Israel.  First of all, in Israel, all branches of the military (army, navy, and air force) are referred to as the IDF, which stands for the Israeli Defence Force.  Nearly all Israelis, with a few exceptions, are required to serve in the Israeli military after they have reached their 18th birthday.  Arabs who live in Israel, can opt out of serving, if they so choose.  

Mandatory service applies to both Jewish men and women.  I guess when you have a country as small as Israel, the military needs every able-bodied man - even if that man is a woman.  Men serve three years in the IDF, while women serve two.  I believe that Israel is the only country in the world that drafts women into the military.  What is good about the IDF is that the women have equal rights and are allowed to serve in ANY position.  It seems that Israeli women are taking advantage of this and they make up 51% of the population of officers in the IDF. 

After completing their required years of regular service, men may be called up for one month each year for "reserve duty", or complete active duty - during a time of crisis.  Men are required to serve as reservists until they are 43 years old.  Wow.  That is a long time to be in the military.

One thing I have heard from several Israelis is that they feel that the mandatory service with the IDF makes their young people more mature.  After your typical twenty-something returns from their tour of duty, they are more prepared to settle down and go to college.  Or make up for lost time, by working hard to launch businesses.  Perhaps that is why their are so many young entrepreneurs in Israel?

I think it would be hard to live in a country where your children get whisked away for the military at 18.  I know that I felt weeping just watching my son get his first military haircut yesterday.  Being a witness to "High and Tight" was horrible.  In barber's terms it was a zero on the sides and two on top.  Essentially that means he's now bald!  The last time I saw this much of his head - he was a new born baby.

Israeli women serve in combat.

Day 81: King David Hotel

You wouldn't think that a hotel could be a tourist attraction - but this one is.  The King David Hotel is a very well known Jerusalem landmark.  Instead of just being a place to book for a night's accomodation, it is a place of history with lots of interesting stories.

The King David Hotel was built in 1929.  Originally, it was considered luxury accomodation, probably due to the fact that it had running water.  On the outside, the hotel looks kind of plain, but I understand it's quite lavish on the inside.  In fact, you could say it's "fit for a king", as many of the Who's Who in royalty have stayed here.  Famous royal guests include:  Prince Charles, Prince Phillip, and King George of Greece.

As a matter of fact, the hotel has hosted so many celeberties, that the floor of the Lobby has a white strip of stone which bears the signatures of the rich and famous.  I understand that you can spend almost an hour reading through all the names.  On the main floor is the Reading Room, which has lots of historical photographs, depicting the history of the hotel and the table that the Peace Treaty between Jordan and Israel was signed.

One bit of history, that put a real black mark on the hotel, happened in 1938.  At that time, the British, who were in control of Israel (then called Palestine) had commandeered part of the hotel as their military headquarters. On July 22, 1946, in retaliation for Britain's crackdown on the Jewish defense fighters, a group called Etzel issued a warning to the British that the hotel was going to be bombed.  Unfortunately, the Brits took the genuine threat as a joke and did not evacuate the hotel.  With 350 kilos of explosives, smuggled into the hotel in milk containers, the bomb detonated and killed 91 people.

In response, British Forces turned downtown Jerusalem into a strict military zone and it stayed like that for many years.  Renovations to the hotel didn't begin until 1958.  But, it wasn't too long before the King David Hotel was restored to it's original splendor.  During the restoration, they even added on a large outdoor swimming pool.

Unfortunately, I don't think it will be in my budget to stay the night at this hotel  - a standard room goes for  $530 U.S. per night.  I can't even imagine what the Luxury/Presidential suites go for?   I do think I'd like to stop by the hotel for a cup of tea on the garden terrace.  After which, I intend to walk around the grounds and see all the celebrity signatures listed on the Lobby floor.

Day 80: Hezekiah’s Tunnel

How does this sound for an interesting "walk"? Wading through a 2,700 year old tunnel that was once the main water supply for the city of Jerusalem. To me, it sounds like a great way to combine exercise and some ancient history.

Back in the year, 701 BCE, the Assyrians were about to lay siege to the city of Jerusalem. King Hezekiah, who ruled Jerusalem at that time, had to come up with a plan to maintain enough water for the residents of the city, as well as deny the invaders access to this much needed resource. So, Hezekiah decided to re-route the Upper Gihon spring by way of a tunnel - which would be over 500 yards long.  To excavate the tunnel, the king had two crews working at opposite ends and they met in the middle. That would be no easy task! Apparently, there are chisel marks, plaster, and zigzags near the halfway mark. But, those clever Ancient Israelis got the job done. 

To access the tunnel, you start at a place called "Warren's Shaft". You descend a set of stairs and start wallking.  The tunnel ends up at a place called "Shiloah Pool".  They say it takes about 40 minutes to walk the entire tunnel and you must be prepared to get wet. At the beginning of the tunnel the water is knee-high, but by the end it can reach as high as your waist. Water shoes are highly recommended.

Obviously, this is an activity that is best done in the summer. Even though the spring waters are a constant temperature all year, the outside air is going to make it VERY COLD in the Winter.  So, I will make a note to do this towards the end of my trip - on the warmest day possible. I hope it won't be too cold to do it in March, cause this looks very fun to do.

Day 79: Italian Jewish Art

Well I've never been to Italy, but if I visit this place, I might feel like I have.  The Museum of Italian Jewish Art can be found in Jerusalem.  Founded in 1981, this art museum features the art of the Italian Jewish communities from the Middle Ages to the present.  The art collection includes artifacts such as: Holy Arks, Bibles,  prayer books, silver, and textiles.

The founder of the museum was Umberto Nahon, an Italian Jew, who traveled across Italy in the 1950's acquiring the Jewish art. Many of the items were found in deserted synagogues that once belonged to Jewish communities in Italy that had completely lost their members.

In addition to the permanent and temporary exhibits, the museum also has a wood and a textile restoration workshop.  I read that the building, where the museum is located, has an interesting history.  However, they say it is one of those "fascinating stories" that you should hear in person.  So I will wait.

Apparently, the Museum of Italian Jewish Art is one of those little gems that most visitors to Israel don't see.  It's location is off the beaten path, so unless you know about it, you will probably miss it.  So, I am going to make a point of checking this museum out. 

Museum of Italian Jewish Art
27, Hillel Street (parallel to Ben Yehuda)
Jerusalem

Day 78 - Professional Basket Weaving

Arts and Crafts, seem to have some magical ability to bring people together.  Perhaps when we are accessing our creative spirit, there just is no room for animosity?

I recently read about the Sindyanna Center, located in Kufr Manda.  This is a town in the Galilee region of Israel.  The center has become a place where Arab and Jewish women can meet and weave baskets. 

The baskets they make here, look absolutely lovely.  Visitors are invited to take a tour of the center, which includes:

• A short film
• A tour of the facilities
• A question-and-answer session about the organization
• A meeting with the basket weavers
• A demonstration of weaving palm frond baskets
• A visit to their store, where the baskets are sold at reasonably low prices.

In addition to the hand-made baskets, other store items include such Fair Trade products as: olive oil, soap, honey, carob syrup, and spices.

I think it would be wonderful to visit this center, where both Arab and Jewish women are working to empower themselves economically through their artistry.  If there was also an opportunity for me to try my own hand at basket weaving - I would be thrilled to bits.  For some reason, the ancient crafts of Israel seem so attractive to me. Not to mention, how neat it would be to meet some of the local Arab & Jewish artisans in the Galilee region.

Day 77: The River Jordan

There are lots of gospel images associated with the River Jordan in Israel.  I think the biggest association is from the Christian religion - with John the Bapist, baptizing all who came to the river and repented for their sins.

While I am sure the River Jordan is still an huge religious attraction for Christians visiting the Holy Land, it has become a different kind of attraction for modern Israelis.  Rafting on the Jordan has become a popular activity.

Unlike rafting on the Colorado River in the United States, rafting on the Jordan is a much gentler experience.  It is more of a relaxed float, where river runners sit back and enjoy the ride.  I believe the starting point for most "rafters" is where the Sea of Galilee feeds into the Jordan.  They say it takes from 1-2 hours to go down the river.  Maybe a little longer if you stop for a picnic lunch.

There are several companies that provide all the gear you need for your River Jordan experience  - ranging from tubes to kayaks.  I believe that part of the service usually includes a return trip by bus to where you parked your car.

Floating down the River Jordan sounds like a nice way to spend an afternoon.  However, I don't know if it would be an ideal activity for a lone traveler?  For some reason, it seems better suited for families or groups of friends.  But, then again, if I am in that area, I might still check it out.  However, this might be one of those activities best done in the summer.  Winter might be a tad chilly to run the river.

Day 76: Sasoon's Israel Connection

Last month, the world famous hairdresser, Vidal Sasson passed away at the age of 84.  He is probably one of the most well know hairdressers in the world.  Many people know that he was born in Britain, but I wonder how many know that he had a very interesting link to Israel.

Apparently, Vidal Sassoon was not only born in London, but he was also born to a Jewish family.  Sadly, because the father abandoned the family, Vidal was sent to a Jewish orphanage at the age of 3.

Towards the end of World War II, when Sassoon was a teenager, he joined a group of Jewish Veterans.  They worked hard to combat the growing anti-semitism in London.  Just a few years later, when he was only 20 years old, Sassoon left England and journeyed to Israel.  He was on hand in 1948, to help fight for Israel's independence.  

"When you think of 2,000 years of being put down and suddenly you are a nation rising, it was a wonderful feeling. There were only 600,000 people defending the country against five armies, so everyone had something to do."

 After serving in the Israeli Defense Force for a year, Vidal headed back to England and began his next journey - to world fame as a hairdresser.  However, as he became successful, Vidal continued to support the Jewish state.

In 1982 he founded the Vidal Sassoon International Center at Jerusalem's Hebrew University.  It's mission is to study and analyze anti-semitism at the global level.  In addition, the center supports educational and cultural projects in Israel.  This week, June 14th, 2012, the Vidal Sassoon center is hosting an evening in his honor.

I thought it was interesting to learn about Vidal's connection to Israel. I was also very impressed to see the wealth of research - ranging from research papers to conference recordings - available for free on the Vidal Sassoon International Center's website. 

Just like they say that "six degrees of separation" connect everyone to Kevin Bacon.  I am beginning to think the same thing is true about Israel.

Day 75 - Hidden Bullet Factory

Well here is something you don't see everyday.  A hidden bullet museum.  Only in Israel would you find such a thing!

The Ayalon Institute is just north of Rehovot, which is south of Tel Aviv.  When you are on the ground level, it looks like a regular kibbutz.  But once you get underground, visitors can tour Israel's first bullet factory.

This facility was built before the modern state of Israel was born - when the British were in charge.  The bullet factory was used by groups of Jewish pioneers, who were working hard to make Israel a Jewish state. At that time, the Ayalon Institute produced over two million bullets - from 1946 to 1948.

Visiting the museum today, visitors can learn about this chapter of Israel's history, by watching a film and then touring the museum.  Visitors even get to experience entering the factory through the secret entrance that kept the facility hidden from the British.

This would be one attraction my younger son would just love.  He loves anything to do with the military.  So if you add in bullets and hidden staircases, he'd be in his element touring this place.

Day 74 - Israel - Ultimate Destination

This week's Torah portion is "Behaaloscha" - Numbers 8:1-12:16.  What takes place in this part of the Bible is that the Jewish people are in the midst of the journey from Egypt to Israel.  At this juncture, the people are getting a little cranky.  The road has become long and the journey has become hard.  Moses, who is an incredible leader declares, "We are traveling now to our ultimate destination - the Land of Israel".

Unfortunately, the people just don't share Moses' enthusiasm and really aren't sure about sticking with the plan.  Instead, they start contemplating their other options.  They can remain in the desert and continue living a life with super-natural miracles - like manna from heaven and an endless supply of water.  But, they are already getting sick and tired of eating the same thing every day (kind of sounds like some diets I've been on).  They can go back to Egypt - to the life they once knew.  But, that would entail becoming slaves again.  Since they've been through changes due to witnessing some miraculous experiences (splitting seas, 10 commandments, etc,) they are no longer the same people.

Ultimately, the people decide that their only real option is to press forward with Moses and continue to the Promised Land.  However, they do so reluctantly, and with a heavy heart.  As modern day readers, we already know the end of this story - this group of disgruntled travelers are not going to make it.  Instead, they are all going to mess up big time, and as a result, they will be doomed to 40 years of wandering through the dessert.  It is only the next generation - their children - that are going to be allowed to cross over.

So the moral of the story seems to be - if you want to get to Israel - you need to have a good attitude.  To reach the ultimate destination requires commitment and enthusiasm.  While it's true that Israel has been a refuge for Jews all over the world, we must never lose sight of the fact that it's a really special place that shouldn't be taken for granted.  Especially since, Moses, who was so unwavering in leading the Jewish people to Israel, never got to enter the land himself.  While it might have been our "ultimate destination", it was only Moses' "ultimate journey".

I see this week's Torah portion as a great metaphor for reaching some work-related and personal goals I am currently working on.  Sometimes it truly feels like the road is long and much to hard.  However, I have to remember that there are only three options - go back, stay where I am, or press on.  Most times, I know that moving forward is really are only true option.

I also see how this is a message for my trip to Israel.  I'd like to think that I share Moses' enthusiasm for reaching this ultimate destination.  As I continue to author this blog, my belief that I will really get there becomes stronger and stronger.  It's as if each post is another step in the journey - helping me to reach my destination.  Instead of just hoping I will get to Israel - I know I will get to Israel.

Day 73 - Allenby Memorial

My mother recently shared another suggested site I visit in Israel.  It is the Allenby Monument in Jerusalem.  This Britsh War memorial, honors  Field Marshal Edmund Allenby, who was in charge of the British during the capture of Palestine during WWI.  Erected in 1920, the memorial is on the hill where the first surrender ceremony took place, the inscription reads:

Near this spot, the Holy City was surrendered to the 60th London Division, 9th December 1917.  Erected by their comrades to those officers, NCOs and men who fell in fighting for Jerusalem.

According to legend, the monument was built from the stones of the dismantled Ottoman clock tower which had been erected on top of one of the Old Jerusalem gates by the Sultan Abdul Hamid. Of special interest on the memorial, is the images of the English Knights, who were the conquerers of Jerusalem during the Crusades.

When my mother stumbled upon the memorial, she was very saddened to see how neglected it had become.  Perhaps the locals or the Israeli government don't think fondly of the British?  From what I understand, the memorial has now been tidied up and looks much better.  In respect for my British roots, I will be sure to visit the memorial when my journey takes me to Jerusalem.

On a personal note, my mother's father, who was a career British soldier with the Coldstream Guards, served for a spell in Israel.  My grandfather's tour of Israel, then called Palestine, was just prior to WWII.  Here are his notes from his memoirs - "Eighty Years With the Coldstream Guards".

In 1936, The 3rd Btn. embarked for Palestine (now known as Israel) this tour was not really troublesome, No. 4 Coy went on to Jerusalem from Haifa, we were housed in the Kaiser Agustus Hospice, overlooking the Mount of Olives and the Old City. We visited places in groups, always armed and alert, we went to Bethlehem then had a swim in the Dead Sea. Later we moved to Safed, overlooking the Sea of Galilee.

Machine guns were sited on the roof of the hotel in the center of Safed and we succeeded in keeping the Arabs and Jews apart. Sir Victor had a brush and a skirmish with some Arabs and was awarded the M.C. I was invited to join two officers on a visit to Damascus which was most interesting.

Early in 1938 I received the L.S. & G.C. medal (Long Service and Good Conduct Medal) from Lieut. General Sir Alfred Codrington (this was the third medal I have).

~ Thomas (Tim) Courtney

Today, my son David, who is an avid military buff, has all of his Great Grandad Tim's medals.  I will have to tell him that one of those medals was earned while serving in Palestine.

When I first began planning my trip to Israel, I knew I would be walking in my mother's footsteps.  Now, I realize that I will be marching in the footsteps of my grandfather too.  My mother visited as a tourist, while my grandfather visited as a soldier.  It's interesting to ponder my family's connection to the Land of Israel.

Day 72 - Billy Rose Art Garden

AHAVA Hebrew word for LOVE.

Okay, I have discovered another Far East meets Middle East - art attraction in Israel - the Billy Rose Art Garden.

While talking on the phone this weekend, my mother told me about a place in Jerusalem that she really enjoyed when she visited Israel.  Knowing that I have become a lover of all things that have to do with Art and Israel, she thought I'd like this place.

The Billy Rose Art Garden, which is part of the Israel Museum in Jerusalem, was designed by Isamu Noguchi, an Japanese-American sculptor.  The garden features modern and abstract sculptures.  The sculptures are from such world renowned artists as: Auguste Rodin, Pablo Picasso, and Henry Moore.  The garden also features such prominent Israeli artists as: Menashe Kadishman, Igael Tumarkin, Ezra Orion, and Benni Efrat.

The garden was designed to reflect the peace and tranquility of a Japanese Zen garden.  In as such, the grounds are covered with gravel, the garden has stones of different shapes and sizes, and water.  My mother said that what she liked best about the Billy Rose Art Garden was the fabulous size of the sculptures.  Some are larger than life.

In case you are wondering how the Billy Rose garden got it's name, it was named in honor of it's founder. William "Billy" Rose, was a Jewish American, who acheived fame and notoriety writing song lyrics.  Inducted into the Songwriters Hall of Fame in 1970, Rose is probably most famous for the song "Me and My Shadow".  He was also at one time married to the Fanny Brice, the singer portrayed by Barbara Streisand in the hit musical "Funny Girl".

When the Billy Rose Sculpture Garden opened, Billy attending the opening ceremony.  It is rumored that when one of the guests asked Rose, in the event of a war, what Israel should do with the abstract steel sculptures?  To which he replied, "Melt them down for bullets."  I don't know if that story is true, or just a myth, but it's a great story either way.

Day 71 - Wine & Cheese in Safed

They say a mandatory stop for all people visiting Safed is the Hameiri Cheese shop. Yes, I know it sounds a little bit like "Ham and Cheese", but considering this is Israel, you just know it has to be "kosher cheese". The shop gets it's cheese from the Hameiri Dairy, which is purported to be the first dairy in Israel. This dairy was established by Meir Arzoni, who's family immigrated from Persia in 1840. Once in Israel, they changed their name to Hameiri.

Before Meir Hameiri died, he gave his family these instructions:

1. The family's home would always be passed on to the son in the family that took the name of Shlomi or Meir.
2. The family home would never be rented out or sold. 

To this day, the Hameiri family has honored those requests. The Hameiri Dairy produces has garnered a wonderful reputation for making goat and sheep cheeses of the highest quality. They have also become popular for producing what is now known as Bulgarian cheese. When visiting Safed, visitors can take a tour of the cheese production plant.

Another place of interest in Safed is the Old Tzfat Winery. Apparently, Moshe Alon, who is the owner of the winery, is happy to explain the process of wine making to visitors that frequent his winery. Moshe began his wine making career by making it in his own home in Safed's Old Jewish Quarter. He said he would have students from the Yeshiva (where Orthodox Jewish men study Torah) by coming over to help unload grapes from his truck and stomp on the grapes. As his wine began to grow in popularity, Moshe invested in a winery business, that now produces 20,000 bottles of wine a year.

I already know that my travels are going to take me to Safed. From my interest in Kaballah and Art, I now know I have to spend some time tasting the local food and drink produced in the city. I can't think of a better way to spend a Friday afternoon - than a trip to the Old Tzfat Winery and then a tour of the Hameiri Dairy.

Later that evening, equipped with my wine and cheese, I plan to walk out to the beautiful hills of Safed and welcome in Shabbat - just like the Ancient Kaballalists did so many years ago.